Although I was eliminated from the Fashion Challenge contest, I still finished this week’s challenge, which was the Salme Yoke Dress. We were told about this challenge over a week ago in order to purchase the pattern. I’m not sure why they chose this pattern or if they even tested it out before they picked it. There were no reviews and little information I could find when searching for the pattern online, which is something I nearly always do when purchasing patterns, especially from an unfamiliar source. Was it the price? If so, The Colette Macaron (a similar yoke dress pattern) could have been downloaded for just a few bucks more. I’d never even heard of Salme Patterns, but I thought the dress would be cute on me with some modifications.
This pattern is sized small and is meant for small and petite women, of which I am neither. It also has no seam allowances. I had to get my rulers out and do a lot of math and drafting to get this pattern to fit me and I basically redrafted a new muslin pattern. I am used to having to alter patterns and grade them up, but never to the extent as this pattern. Pair that with the fact that I hate PDF patterns and I was not a happy camper. However, I now have a custom fitted pattern and got myself geared up to work with a vintage 1952 dress pattern which should arrive in my mailbox shortly and will have to be graded up as well.
Muslin pattern pieces pinned to my dressform
I decided that I was only going to use fabrics that I had in my sash, so I went through my boxes and found these three fabrics that went together.
I based my fabric choices with the lace that I wanted to use for the yoke. It is a champagne, dusty rose and chocolate floral lace with some glitter dots that I bought from Fabric Mart a few months ago. I got it to use in lingerie making (which I still haven’t done….).
It went beautifully with the remnants of champagne crepe back satin that I used to make a kimono dress for my wedding rehearsal dinner. I bought this lovely poly satin at a local indie fabric store and only had enough to make the bodice. The pattern I used is McCalls 5579, which is an out-of-print pattern. I love kimono dresses and this pattern is great except for the skirt. It is narrow and hard to sit in, so when I made it again out of a cotton blend fabric, I widened the skirt.
With two of my bridesmaids at my wedding rehearsal dinner
I have never shared photos of this dress on my blog before, so here’s another. 
Me with most of my bridal party
Looking at these photos, I’m thinking about making that pattern again with some lovely black floral Anna Sui silk chiffon lined with lavender silk charmeuse from my stash.
Anyway….. I used this dusty rose Maggy London brocade that I bought from FM many months ago to make curtains in my sewing room. I bought A LOT, so I still have plenty to make my curtains, whenever I get around to that….
Besides altering the pattern to make it larger, I also lengthened the skirt and widened the shoulders on the yoke. Originally, I had planned to add cap sleeves, but I forgot that I was going to…. lol I was also going to make the skirt even longer than my re-drafted muslin pattern, but I also forgot to do that….. Honestly, where was my mind that day? Too busy watching Vertigo I suppose…. I do like the length, though. It’s fun and more modern than most dresses I make. I’m wearing this to a wedding next month, so it will be perfect for the occasion.
My finished lace, satin and brocade yoke dress
I did not follow the instructions at all, nor did I finish off the yoke with bias tape. Instead I did a rolled hem on all of the edges.
Lace and crepe back satin bodice
I love the sweetheart neckline, so I definitely did not want to change it. I don’t have any dresses with sheer yokes, so I wanted to leave that feature as well.
The “belt” detail on the front of the bodice basically came about because I was working with a fabric remnant and I didn’t have enought to cut out the front of the bodice, so I made that with two pieces of crepe back satin together with a lace overlay. I really like how that turned out!
Lace overlay on faux front “belt”
I found these gorgeous buttons at Joann’s for the back closure. I used some cream colored cording for the loop.
I fully lined this dress with a Vera Wang acetate lining I got from FM a few months ago.
Front lining
Back lining
I also pleated my skirt differently than the pattern suggested.
All in all, I really do love this dress. I think it will be perfect for the fall wedding we’re attending. It’s very comfortable to wear, although my heels are not …. I think I’ll pair it with nude ballet flats instead as the wedding we’re going to is an all day function with a long Catholic mass. I’d love to make this dress in the fuchsia pink polka dot satin that Natalie sent me in a sewing swap. In fact, I had hoped to use that for this dress, but I didn’t have any lace, organza or chiffon that matched it. I think it will look lovely in this pattern with a gathered, fuller skirt.
Now to work on my Fall for Cotton dress!
Happy Sewing!
Dress: Salme Yoke Dress in champagne/rose/chocolate lace, champagne poly crepe back satin and rose brocade; lined with acetate lining, made by me
Shoes: Nine and Co
