Champagne and Roses Yoke Dress

Although I was eliminated from the Fashion Challenge contest, I still finished this week’s challenge, which was the Salme Yoke Dress.  We were told about this challenge over a week ago in order to purchase the pattern.  I’m not sure why they chose this pattern or if they even tested it out before they picked it.  There were no reviews and little information I could find when searching for the pattern online, which is something I nearly always do when purchasing patterns, especially from an unfamiliar source.  Was it the price?  If so, The Colette Macaron (a similar yoke dress pattern) could have been downloaded for just a few bucks more.  I’d never even heard of Salme Patterns, but I thought the dress would be cute on me with some modifications.

This pattern is sized small and is meant for small and petite women, of which I am neither.  It also has no seam allowances.  I had to get my rulers out and do a lot of math and drafting to get this pattern to fit me and I basically redrafted a new muslin pattern.  I am used to having to alter patterns and grade them up, but never to the extent as this pattern.  Pair that with the fact that I hate PDF patterns and I was not a happy camper.  However, I now have a custom fitted pattern and got myself geared up to work with a vintage 1952 dress pattern which should arrive in my mailbox shortly and will have to be graded up as well.

Muslin pattern pieces pinned to my dressform

Muslin pattern pieces pinned to my dressform

I decided that I was only going to use fabrics that I had in my sash, so I went through my boxes and found these three fabrics that went together.

salme fabrics

I based my fabric choices with the lace that I wanted to use for the yoke.  It is a champagne, dusty rose and chocolate floral lace with some glitter dots that I bought from Fabric Mart a few months ago.  I got it to use in lingerie making (which I still haven’t done….).

salme lace

It went beautifully with the remnants of champagne crepe back satin that I used to make a kimono dress for my wedding rehearsal dinner.  I bought this lovely poly satin at a local indie fabric store and only had enough to make the bodice.  The pattern I used is McCalls 5579, which is an out-of-print pattern.  I love kimono dresses and this pattern is great except for the skirt.  It is narrow and hard to sit in, so when I made it again out of a cotton blend fabric, I widened the skirt.

With two of my bridesmaids at my wedding rehearsal dinner

With two of my bridesmaids at my wedding rehearsal dinner

I have never shared photos of this dress on my blog before, so here’s another. :)

Me with most of my bridal party

Me with most of my bridal party

Looking at these photos, I’m thinking about making that pattern again with some lovely black floral Anna Sui silk chiffon lined with lavender silk charmeuse from my stash. :)

Anyway….. I used this dusty rose Maggy London brocade that I bought from FM many months ago to make curtains in my sewing room.  I bought A LOT, so I still have plenty to make my curtains, whenever I get around to that….

salme brocade

Besides altering the pattern to make it larger, I also lengthened the skirt and widened the shoulders on the yoke.  Originally, I had planned to add cap sleeves, but I forgot that I was going to…. lol  I was also going to make the skirt even longer than my re-drafted muslin pattern, but I also forgot to do that….. Honestly, where was my mind that day?  Too busy watching Vertigo I suppose…. I do like the length, though.  It’s fun and more modern than most dresses I make.  I’m wearing this to a wedding next month, so it will be perfect for the occasion.

My finished lace, satin and brocade yoke dress

My finished lace, satin and brocade yoke dress

I did not follow the instructions at all, nor did I finish off the yoke with bias tape.  Instead I did a rolled hem on all of the edges.

Lace and crepe back satin bodice

Lace and crepe back satin bodice

I love the sweetheart neckline, so I definitely did not want to change it.  I don’t have any dresses with sheer yokes, so I wanted to leave that feature as well.

salme dressform

The “belt” detail on the front of the bodice basically came about because I was working with a fabric remnant and I didn’t have enought to cut out the front of the bodice, so I made that with two pieces of crepe back satin together with a lace overlay.  I really like how that turned out!

Lace overlay on faux front "belt"

Lace overlay on faux front “belt”

I found these gorgeous buttons at Joann’s for the back closure.  I used some cream colored cording for the loop.

salme button

I fully lined this dress with a Vera Wang acetate lining I got from FM a few months ago.

Front lining

Front lining

Back lining

Back lining

I also pleated my skirt differently than the pattern suggested.

salme 2

salme 3

salme back 1

salme 4

salme 6

All in all, I really do love this dress.  I think it will be perfect for the fall wedding we’re attending.  It’s very comfortable to wear, although my heels are not ….  I think I’ll pair it with nude ballet flats instead as the wedding we’re going to is an all day function with a long Catholic mass.  I’d love to make this dress in the fuchsia pink polka dot satin that Natalie sent me in a sewing swap.  In fact, I had hoped to use that for this dress, but I didn’t have any lace, organza or chiffon that matched it.  I think it will look lovely in this pattern with a gathered, fuller skirt. :)

salme 7

Now to work on my Fall for Cotton dress! :)

Happy Sewing!





Dress:  Salme Yoke Dress in champagne/rose/chocolate lace, champagne poly crepe back satin and rose brocade; lined with acetate lining, made by me

Shoes:  Nine and Co

  • Gjeometry

    Aw, sorry to hear you were eliminated from the challenge. But, good job that you did not give up and made this dress challenge as it’s just beautiful! I love how it fits you and the shiny fabric.

    • tanya maile

      Thank you! :) This crepe back satin is divine. Almost as luxurious as silk and not stiff.

  • MadeByMeg

    Love love love the print combo you chose. Nicely done!

    • tanya maile

      Thank you, Meg!

  • Nessa

    Very nice! Well done to you on your grading task!

    • tanya maile

      Thanks, Nessa! :)

  • Beth Conkwright

    It’s very pretty. Great job grading up. I just started following you from the Fabric Mart Challenge. Was sorry to see you got kicked off.

    • tanya maile

      Thank you, Beth. :)

  • ksgentry

    Love the colors that you used for the dress, the lace yolk fabric is beautiful and paired so well with the bodice and skirt fabric. You did great resizing the pattern. Job well done!

    • tanya maile

      I love the lace, too, and was happy that I was able to use it.

  • Sandra

    You do such a great job of grading up your patterns, very inspiring. I have that pattern on my Pinterest but have ended up buying a Victory Patterns Ava dress. I am surprised that the patterns weren’t made available to the contestants for free, sponsored rather than you having to buy specific patterns???

    • tanya maile

      I haven’t tried any victory patterns yet. I should put that on my to-do list.

      This contest is poorly run without much forethought. I was surprised to have to buy a pattern as well. Many companies would have gladly sponsored it.

  • prttynpnk

    Good on you for finishing this- I love the fabric combinations you chose!

    • tanya maile

      I’m happily surprised how it turned out!

  • gatorbunny

    The fabrics look great together. I love that you were able to pull them from your stash. And your workmanship is amazing. The lining is beautiful. Great work.

    • tanya maile

      Thank you! I’m glad that I was able to use up some fabrics just sitting there rather than buying all new

  • Kimberly

    I think that you made a lovely dress out of what you were given. It’s definitely a very youthful dress.

    • tanya maile

      Thank you, Kimberly!

  • Shams

    That came out great, Tanya! The lace is a perfect accent and I think that the way you pleated the skirt is much more flattering. Yes, that dress, as designed, is much more suited to my 18- and 20-year old daughters than it is to me!

    • tanya maile

      Thanks, Shams! Like Kathy said, definitely a junior dress!

  • Kathy

    This is killer! I love little details like the button back. The sizing is absolutely junior sizing (I had to tweak it to fit my taller, wider features.) I’ve made the Colette Macaron a load of times (pre-blog days, I have no photos) and found Salme to be a simplified version of it. You did a great job grading it!! So much work here on this dress and it was worth it!

    • tanya maile

      Thanks, Kathy! Yes, it’s definitely junior sizing. I was thinking how the original pattern would be better suited for my nieces, but I love how it turned out with the tweaking.

  • kd

    Really Nice!! You are pretty impressive. If I don’t follow a pattern pretty exactly I am basically lost. 😎
    The lining looks awesome….always the sign of well-constructed garments in my mind.

    • tanya maile

      I usually follow pattern instructions, but it was pretty easy not following them this time! I should take more photos of the insides of garments. I rarely remember to do that!

  • ShanniLoves

    So glad you went ahead and finished this because it turned out lovely. Perfect for a fall wedding!

    • tanya maile

      Thank you, Shanni!

  • sewexhausted

    Tania it turned out lovely! And looks like you had to put quite a bit of work in to it. I am so sorry to hear you were eliminated. You make some beautiful things. I am glad you went ahead and finished this dress! ~Laurie

    • tanya maile

      Thank you, Laurie! At least I got a new dress out of it!

  • Peg sewer

    Really nice, Tanya and good for you for going ahead and making it!

    • tanya maile

      Thank you, Peg! I honestly thought about not finishing it, but I already had it started and had something to wear it, too, so I’m glad I did!