Merry Christmas, friends!
I’m so happy to share this year’s Christmas dress!
The pattern I used this year is the Colette Dahlia. As soon as this pattern came out, I had to have it. There is a designer dress that I’ve been planning to copy and this pattern is quite similar to it and meant that I didn’t have to do any pattern tweaking, mashing or drafting to get a similar look. I decided to make a different dress with the pattern first before cutting into my more expensive fabric and trim and as the Dahlia looks so great in plaid, my Christmas fabric seemed like a perfect candidate.
I know there has been a lot of talk about this dress with many other sewers seemingly unsatisfied with the end result. It looks super cute on the models and overall I’m satisfied with my dress itself, but honestly uncertain whether I will make the pattern again. Although I am not a large busted lady, I do wear a D cup (DD according bra measurement charts…), so I am not small busted either. I have made other dresses with gathers on the bottom of the bodice and found it to be flattering, but I don’t think that the gathers on this one are that flattering on me. I think perhaps they’re suited for a gal with a smaller bust. I know that I have read many comments from when this pattern was released from full busted ladies stating how they didn’t think this dress would look good on them and I figured that they meant those with E’s and higher. I really didn’t think it would mean me…I did not do any alterations to this dress. I cut a 20/22 out of the envelope. I never have a problem with Colette patterns and rarely have to do any alterations, so I was certain that this pattern would fit me right. The only real problem I have with it is that it’s a bit of a squeeze to get into. It has a side zip and I think it should go up a little higher. I started the invisible zipper where the pattern dictated and it just seems like it needs more room. I’ve made a lot of dresses with side zips, including ones with sleeves, and have never had this issue. It was also a big problem putting this dress on my dress form, which is why the following photo of this dresses’ “guts” are not on my form.
Pretty simple inside with no lining. I usually line all of my dresses whether there are lining pieces/instructions or not. With this one I figured I could get away without lining due to my midweight fabric and the fact that I’d most likely be wearing tights or leggings with it most of the time. I finished the seams with my serger and used bias tape on the neckline. I was just using some leftover bias tape from my stash, so this one is a narrower than suggested. I didn’t use it on the sleeves like the pattern instructs.
The fabric I used for this dress is a rayon/acetate red plaid fabric from Britex Fabrics. I picked this up in San Francisco during their Columbus Day sale, but it’s actually still available online in limited quantity as I write this. The fabric is a bit itchy, so I probably should have lined it, but it’s not enough to bother me immensely. I just wouldn’t be wearing this for an every day dress.
I really didn’t like the gathers on the skirt and had never planned on using this skirt with this bodice as I had always planned on swapping it out for a different skirt pattern. However, I did decide to use the Dahlia skirt and was not happy with the gathers at all when I sewed the skirt to the waistband, but after I pressed them down, I was happier with the result.
You can’t really see it, but this skirt has a little kick pleat. I’m not sure why this skirt needs it and mine just blends in with the tartan print, so you can’t tell it’s there anyway. That’s pretty much a design feature that could be eliminated in my opinion.
I did mention earlier about wearing this dress with tights or leggings and I’m obviously not doing it here… It was in the 60’s (F) when I took these photos and I didn’t feel like overheating…
Yes, Doc was such a good boy posing with me. 🙂
I do really like my Christmas dress. I’m doubtful whether I will make this pattern again as I don’t think it’s the best bodice design for me. I had hopes that it would be, but alas, I feel that it’s not absolutely fabulous, which is what a dress should be if I take the time to make it. I could alter this dress to get it how I want — but why? There are many other patterns out there that I love and fit me without alterations. As far as my planned designer copy — I may or may not use the Dahlia. I have a while to come up with a plan for that dress as it will be a spring/summer frock and I needn’t worry about it at the moment.
I will leave you with the Hughes family Christmas photo. Two dogs are missing as they are quite frankly PITAs at picture taking and it was easier to let them sleep in their beds while the other three were out posing with Mr. H and I. 🙂
Happy Holidays!
- Dress: Colette Dahlia in red plaid rayon/acetate, made by me
- Shoes: Aerosoles
- Pin: Vintage
- Bracelet & earrings: Bauble Bar
nycbookwriter says
I think it flatters you..I’m toying with my muslin stage, fretting on what the bust gathers and my plaid will do.
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Annessa! Muslins are best with this dress. I love it in plaid! 🙂
www.tresbienensemble.com says
Adorable family photo! I love a good tartan dress during the holiday season. It’s a bummer that it didn’t turn out exactly as you had hoped. I feel much the same as you in terms of altering patterns. There are too many great patterns out there to use precious sewing time fighting with one that isn’t cooperating. At least you got a beautiful Christmas dress out of the experience!
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Michelle! 🙂 Yep — unless it’s a pattern that is unique or complicated, why bother with doing a lot of alterations!
Sophie-Lee says
Bah, how frustrating about the fabric! And it’s such a shame this pattern has disappointed so many people. I still think I can get it to work for me, but not without a bunch of work.
The dress does look awesome on you though! Makes me think I need a red tartan Christmas dress…
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Sophie! Yes, it sucks when a pattern doesn’t turn out how you want it…. Do you think you’ll make another Dahlia?
Sophie-Lee says
Yeah I definitely think I’ll try it again. Hopefully it doesn’t end up like the Anna pattern for me though, where I made about 5 versions before I realised it was just going to look terrible no matter what.
Tanya says
I think that dress looks rather nice on you. I too made the Dahlia but in a plain fabric instead of a patterned one and had make numerous changes as l am very full busted and had to narrow the shoulders. I found that the underbust gathers had to be shifted and widened to produce a more flattering fit . Having said that I was happy with the outcome.
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Tanya! 🙂 I’ve made some other dresses with the under bust gathers in a different area, so I’d say you’re right. A little experimenting will get you a long way!
Poppy Black says
I adore the fabric! I absolutely loved Dahlia when I first saw it, then saw one made up and was really surprised it was the same pattern. I think your one looks great and will be super with tights and boots in winter. Love the family photos!!! xxxx
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Poppy! Yeah, not sure why the pattern looks so different. I wish they would have used models of different body types when photographing that pattern.
Nessa says
Love your photo shoot! Such a Scottish Highlands feel! I am glad to see you try this dress though, and thankful for your honest comments on it.
You look beautiful!
tanyamaile says
Thank you, Nessa! I guess I will have to pose in front of our highland-esque rocks whenever I’m photographing a tartan outfit!
Gaylen Matlock says
I think it looks lovely. I think I’ll try it first in a jersey. Not sure why the under best gathers aren’t working. maybe too many or too much gathering in a condensed space? Your family photos look amazing wearing it! g
tanyamaile says
That’s an excellent idea!! I really think a knit would fix these problems!! Would you cut it a size smaller for a knit? I’m not accustomed to changing patterns from wovens to knits, except of course I know I would eliminate the zip.
Michelle Rose says
I think it looks okay on you, but you’ve made things that look better. I’m another one who pre-ordered but have been regretting it since seeing the reviews. I suspect that this pattern will end up in the pattern stash black hole. It’s a bummer because I was looking forward to trying Colette’s expanded size range in a woven dress, but between the issues that I’ve read about with the neckline being large on many, many people and the undarted one-piece raglan sleeve, I don’t think I want to waste my time on this one.
tanyamaile says
My thoughts exactly, Michelle!! Gmarie suggested a knit and I’m thinking about that. It might correct the design problems of this pattern.
misscrayolacreepy says
What a perfect Christmas dress! I that you aren’t too crazy about the dress, but from here it looks lovely! 🙂
tanyamaile says
Thank you, Erin!! The plaid makes me the most happy. 🙂
Laura Poehlman says
I feel like this bodice is sort of similar to that vintage Vogue you’re going to be sewing soon, and maybe you’ll like that one more. I am so drawn to this in plaid, but I am also sure I would just make a dirndl skirt in plaid rather than either of the options shown with the pattern. Just because it seems easier with plaid. But this make is really darling on you, and I think you should revisit this pattern come sundress time.
tanyamaile says
I think the plaid version is what drew me. Anything in a tartan captures my attention. I do like the sundress version, but haven’t see anything flattering made in that version yet. Gmarie suggested a knit — I think that might be the way to go!
lifeinamadshouse says
Beautiful family photo! I love your fabric–it’s the perfect material for a Christmas dress! And I think you look beautiful in your dress (then again, when don’t you?!?), but I respect that you’re unsure about some aspects of it.
With Dahlia, I did what you did: pre-ordered it the minute it came out and then saw reviews start to crop up that mentioned fit issues. I know patterns don’t fit right out of the envelope on hardly anyone, but undarted one-piece woven raglan sleeves + wide neckline + bust gathers make me wish I’d been a little more patient before I ordered. I keep telling myself that I got a sale price, so it could have been worse! =) Still haven’t decided when I’ll crack it open, but I really appreciate your perspective!
tanyamaile says
Awe, thank you! Gmarie suggested it in a knit and I’m really thinking it would look great in a knit fabric. Maybe that will save us and we won’t feel like we wasted money on it. 🙂
Mother of Reinvention says
What a great photo of you all. I loved this pattern when it was released but sadly I really didn’t think that this was a style that would do busty women any favours too. Thank you for your honest review. I think that you look great in your dress, the colours are fab and the fabric looks rich and cosy but if the fit is off and it isn’t as comfy as it should be then I see what you mean about the pattern. I have the Lady Grey coat pattern and I haven’t made it for the same reason. Xx
tanyamaile says
Thank you! Impulse purchase, I guess! Apparently I’m not the only one who snagged it and then thought twice about it. I am happy with how it looks though, so I guess that’s what counts. 🙂
Megan @ The Green Violet says
Adorable family photo, I love the backdrop! Thanks for sharing all the thoughts on the pattern, it will be really helpful to review when I finally getting around to making one. For some reason, it just keeps getting pushed to the back of the pile, and the not-so-stellar reviews the pattern are getting aren’t helping motivate me. I was actually concerned about the bust gathers on my small(ish) bust because I feel like they tend to lead to a lot of empty space in the bodice that just makes my bust look smaller. I guess we will see if I ever get around to making it! That said, I love this christmas dress and I think it looks really cute on you and is perfect for the season!
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Megan! Those rocks are my favorite ones to take photos in front of. They’re out in the pasture and there are many more like them if I want to traipse up through the fields to get to them! 🙂
It sure understandable why you wouldn’t want to sew it as the only really fabulous versions I’ve seen of it are on the Colette website!
Alicia says
The dress looks really good on you! And I love the family photo!!
I am slightly larger than a d cup with a much smaller underbust, and a short waist which made this dress look horrible on me.
http://sewingintheshade.blogspot.com/2014/12/burgundy-wool-dahlia.html
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Alicia! I don’t think it looks horrible on you, but it doesn’t flatter you like your other dresses do. I’ve seen far worse versions out there…. It’s just sad that a design that we love just doesn’t look as awesome as we hope it will.
Alicia @ Pandora Sews says
I think that your dress is very pretty and perfectly in the spirit of the season. Sorry to hear about the pattern not fitting well.
I don’t own any Colette patterns, but had been considering this one for the sleeveless version. Now, I think I will have rethink that.
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Alicia! Tartans and Christmas always seem to go together well. 🙂
Now that Colette has broadened their size range, I’m looking forward to seeing what else they come up with next year. Hopefully something that is more flattering on many different body types!
Andie L. says
I think that looks just lovely on you! I love the colour and your gorgeous accessorizing!
I’m hesitant to sew up the Dahlia. Although I bought it immediately, since reading all the reviews, I have held back. I have some cotton plaid-printed sheets I might use for the muslin. No big lose if it doesn’t work out, I guess.
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Andie! 🙂
I know — I pre-ordered it as I loved it and then read the reviews. Sometimes I think jumping the gun is not a good thing! lol