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SOSM Round One: A Linen and Lace True Bias Sutton Blouse

Hello, friends!

I have some exciting news!

I’ve been selected as a contestant in the

Sew Mama Sew Super Online Sewing Match !

 

I’m so happy to be involved in a well run sewing competition complete with knowledgeable judges and fabulous prizes.  I had been anxiously waiting to see what our first challenge would be, and ta da — It’s the True Bias Sutton blouse!

sutton 1

I’ve seen this pattern around the SBC, but it never spoke to me as I seldom wear tops like this.  I’m a dress girl and rarely wear pants or jeans, and this seems like the perfect top to wear with some jeans.  However, I was up to the challenge and always look forward to sewing something new and different that may not be my personal style and trying out new-to-me silhouettes.

Voila, here’s my floaty summer Sutton!

sutton 2

My plan for this competition is to try to use fabrics from my stash for each challenge that I participate in.  I first made this top with silk voile and rose patterned lace, but wasn’t that enamored with it, so I went to Plan B.  [note:  you can click on each photo for larger, more detailed views]

purple sutton

Muslin — purple silk voile and floral lace

sutton collage 1

Finished Sutton: Ivory linen and eyelet with insertion lace

I envisioned a breezy summer top that is light and airy and very summery.  It’s been over a 100 degrees here in California almost every day and the looser the fit and lighter the fabric the better.  I thought it would be interesting to have the fabrics contrast and a lace or eyelet fabric seemed to be perfect to showcase the pattern design.  I used a lightweight linen that I picked up on the remnant floor at Britex Fabrics in San Francisco and paired it with cotton lace eyelet from Joann’s.  Intermixed with my base and contrast fabrics is some eyelet insertion lace, also from Britex.  My insertion lace is actually meant for a future project and was bought especially to match another fabric, but I purchased more than I needed and should have enough for both projects.

sutton back full

I graded this pattern up to about a 22/24, lengthened it by 3″ and widened the sleeves.  I also deepened the neckline and flared it slightly more at the hips per my preference.

sutton collage 2

The inside of my blouse

As I used insertion lace, I couldn’t sew the recommended French seams on the yoke and instead used bias tape.  It makes the seams a little bulkier, but provides a super clean finish.  I originally intended to use rayon seam binding, but found I didn’t have any that matched.  I don’t know why I have a plethora of colors and yet no white/ivory…  I did consider making bias tape with my linen, but felt that the packaged tape was a better option as this linen frays so easily and is not the best material for bias tape.  There is self bias tape on the neckline as the pattern suggests.

sutton inside back seam detail

Bias tape seams on back yoke

sutton inside seam detail

Bias tape seams on front yoke

sutton inside side seam

Side seams

My plan for this blouse was to keep the designer’s style and the design’s integrity intact while doing my own interpretation of the pattern.  I like the idea of using the pattern pieces to add some contrast to a solid color and thought lace would be the perfect fabric for the yoke.  This pattern calls for light fabrics with drape and my lightweight linen was the perfect candidate, albeit a sheer [and wrinkly!] one.

sutton 3

sutton hem detail

Hem detail

I really love heirloom quality techniques like sewing insertion lace into a garment.  It adds some unique details and makes things that you sew even more special.  My inspiration for using these laces was late 19th/early 20th century garments from the Edwardian era as well as light cotton afternoon dresses and negligees of the 1920’s.

sutton back detail

Lace yoke with insertion lace

sutton insertion lace detail

Insertion lace detail on shoulder

This blouse wasn’t easy for me to photograph outside, especially as it was 105 during this photoshoot with so much summer sun.  I had planned on taking photos early in the day before the heat rolled in, but had many things to do at sun up and didn’t get to it.  It’s interesting how my blouse appears to be a simple top, but with a closer inspection shows the intricate detail of the lace and the techniques I used.

Happy Sewing!

signature

  • Top:  True Bias Sutton blouse in lace eyelet and linen, made by me
  • Jeans:  Lucky
  • Shoes:  Sam Edelman
  • Sunglasses: D&G

Comments

  1. I absolutely love this what an amazing job you have done. I looked at this pattern but thought it might be a bit ‘boxy’ in larger sizes, I would have to grade it up at least 2 sizes to fit it over my ample boobs. I might have another look now after your beautiful version. The lace insertion is truly lovely.

  3. Wow, what a nice job you did!! I love the use of the insertion lace. Congratulations!!

  6. This is my favorite version of this blouse I’ve ever seen. You chose exactly the right fabric for it. It’s not fighting the pattern and looks just fabulous! And, the shoulder embellishment is divine!

  9. Love it – my favourite out of the versions sewn for this challenge! I love the classy, simplicity. I’m inspired to make one as well!

      • How comfy would that be in a linen twill? I made a tunic out of a linen blend with sleeves that go down to my elbows I was the most comfortable mom at the park. Sometimes cotton gets so clammy in our humidity and the linen didn’t.

  11. Beautiful work with the lace! I just made a lace robe that’ll be up on the Sewcialist blog soon, but as I was going through it, I remembered how lovely lace is to work with and how unique every type of lace is. You did a great job adapting strategies to handle the insertion lace’s quirks and your solutions add a lot on a plain top. It’s funny, I think most people would be drawn to the first top because of the color and pattern combo, but I think you demonstrated more skill in going monochromatic in the solid white and finding a way to make the white stand out more.

    • Thanks, Elizabeth! I can’t wait to see your lace robe. It sounds divine! As soon as I saw that this pattern for the first challenge, I pictured it in lace and ivory just means summer to me, so it seemed like it would work well and I’m glad that it does. 🙂

  12. I really like your version of the Sutton. I think it is #1 incredibly flattering on you and #2 incredibly chic. I’ve thumbed through them all and yours is my favorite. I just finished up my own and while it’s normally something I wouldn’t wear I’m glad I took on the challenge. It came out better than expected and I’ve already worn it twice. I can’t wait to see what you’ll do next.

    • Thank you, Caroline! 🙂 This isn’t really the type of top that I generally wear, but I’m thinking that it will look perfect tucked in with a skirt. I’m glad yours worked for you as well!

  13. Love, love, love this! You’ve got me thinking about that pattern totally different now since I’d never seen it made up on someone who was my size!

  14. So awesome! As always! I am rooting for you and I am so glad to see you in the contest.

  15. You got that lace at Joann?? I love it! The whole blouse is just amazing, and the insertion really makes it special. Beautiful!

    • Thanks, Kelly! Yes, you can find some gems tucked in with the horrid fabrics at Joanns. I especially like looking at the specialty cottons.

  16. Oof I bet that light linen is PERFECT for that weather – 40 degrees C! New Zealanders get flustered at 30 C (although from my travels overseas, 30 C in NZ does feel similar to 38 or so elsewhere, our sun is HOT)

    • Yes, it’s perfect for this heat! I grew up with summers this hot and I still am not used it! I can’t wait for cold weather!

  19. OMGoodness what a beautiful top! Dreamy and vintage yet practical and un-fussy. luv-luv-luv – forgive my manners but I have added this to my Pinterest and my sewing queue. I MUST have this — and soon. I’ve got some bluish teal and rose linen in the stash. Gotta get some lace. OOOH, it’s a winner.

  22. Absolutely exquisite Sutton, Tanya! I’ve always felt a bit neutral about the Sutton blouse, but your version has changed my mind — so I’ll be adding a Sutton to my sewing queue.

  25. Tanya! This is so cool, and airy. The ace detail is beautiful, I love the top and I love it on you!

  27. That’s such a beautiful blouse and beautifully made! You are a great sewist and you really inspire me so much! I’m so thankful for your blog! Thanks! Kathy

  28. What a beautiful blouse and such a lot of work with the lace and the insertions. It has really paid off though as it is stunning. Best of luck in the competition. This blouse is a winner for sure! Xx

  29. Gorgeous! I love the insertion lace at the yoke seams – it’s such a pretty detail. This is so exciting, seeing everyone’s blouses up today! Best of luck 🙂

    • Thank you!! I love seeing everyone’s take on this pattern. It’s going to be a tough competition. Best of luck to you, too! 🙂

  30. Tanya- I love this top and I love it on you, even though it is a departure from your usual style! I’ve had my eye on this pattern for a while, I even bought some fabric for it but hadn’t yet bought the pattern. Need to get on that. I’m also thinking it could be very cute lengthened to just above the knee length and belted. Good luck in the competition, I think this top is a winner for sure!

    • Thanks, Megan! I’d love to see this on you and yes — I do think it would be a perfect tunic dress. I wasn’t sure about this pattern and if I’d ever wear this top, but I’ve seen others tuck it in and think it’ll be cute with a skirt. If I do plan on wearing jeans and a top like this though — at least I have it! 🙂

  33. Pretty! I never would have guessed that this was a linen from the photographs. Even the seaming looks pretty with your sheer fabric.

    • Thanks, Michelle! I figured I better step it up for this competition and was lucky to have that linen in my “lining” stash. 🙂

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Mrs. Hughes: A retro inspired, vintage garment sewing and plus-size dressmaking blog by Tanya Maile Hughes.