Mrs. Hughes

Retro Inspired Sewing

  • About
    • About Tanya
    • Featured
    • Contact Me
  • My Closet
  • Tutorials
You are here: Home / Retro Garments / The Eilis Dress [Simplicity 1459]

The Eilis Dress [Simplicity 1459]

08/25/2016

Hello, friends!

brooklyn 1 label

*Note:  Portions of this post first appeared on the Cali Fabrics blog.

I’m super excited to share this dress with you.  It’s one that I’ve dreamed about for a while and I’m happy to see it come to fruition.  It turned out even more delightful than I expected, with little vintage details that turn what could have been a plain dress into an interesting frock.

This dress was inspired by one of my favorite films — Brooklyn.  The film takes place in the 1950’s and the main character — Eilis — wears a gorgeous yellow shirtwaist dress in many of the scenes.  I love shirt dresses and 1950’s silhouettes, so I decided that it was a great time to sew my own film-inspired dress.

source

source

I used Simplicity 1459, a shirt dress pattern that I’ve had success with (my other two versions are here).  For my third iteration I chose a yellow stretch cotton broadcloth which worked wonderfully for this dress.  It’s not exactly like Eilis’s dress, but my look is inspired, not a literal interpretation.

Source: Simplicity Patterns

Source: Simplicity Patterns

I made the sleeveless version of this pattern and left it unlined (I’m wearing a light cotton petticoat with dress).  I finished this just in time for our trip to NYC and as it was super hot and humid in the city, I’m happy that I didn’t make the bodice too fitted.

yellow 1950's brooklyn shirt dress

I made a self-fabric matching belt for this dress which really pulls together the entire look.  I thought about using a covered buckle kit, but I had this vintage bakelite buckle in my stash which matched perfectly, so I went with that instead.  Slide buckles aren’t exactly my favorite as I tend to fiddle with them and adjust them throughout the day.  I made sure to make the belt longer so that I could tuck the end in.

yellow 1950's brooklyn shirt dress3

I added piping to the lapel, collar and button band, which proved to be a little bit of a daunting task due to the notches on the lapel.  I ended up altering the notches to work with the piping, which I think works so well with the solid color of this dress.

I had some beautiful yellow floral buttons picked out for this dress, but when it was time to sew them on, I decided that they competed too much with the other details of this dress, so I went with covered buttons instead.

brooklyn 3

I graded this pattern up to about a size 26.  The only alteration I made was a swayback adjustment to the back bodice.  Admittedly, I probably did a little too much of a SB adjustment….  I kept the length of the skirt, which is a little shorter on me than a 1950’s skirt would normally be, but I like this length as it fits the contemporary retro aesthetic that I gravitate towards.

yellow 1950's brooklyn shirt dress2

This dress was a joy to sew and fun to wear.  Sadly, I didn’t wear it to Brooklyn while I was in New York, but I did sport it in Little Italy, SoHo, Battery Park, and on the Staten Island Ferry.  I guess we were too hot and too busy to take a photo.  I wanted my husband to take a pic of me on the ferry, but it was so crowded and annoying that I didn’t get one in.

We also went to the Museum of Jewish Heritage that day and viewed the Hedy Strnad exhibit:  Stitching History from the Holocaust, which was an amazing and powerful exhibit at one of the best museums that I’ve ever toured.

Disclaimer:  I received the fabric for this dress at no cost as I am a Cali Fabrics contributor.  These are my honest thoughts and opinions.

Happy Sewing!

poppy signature

  • Dress:  Simplicity 1459 in cotton broadcloth, made by me
  • Shoes:  Stuart Weitzman
  • Earrings:  Bauble Bar
  • Pin:  Victorian Trading Company
  • Sunglasses:  eBay
Share this:
  • Share via Email
  • Share via Facebook
  • Share via Pinterest
  • Share via Ravelry
  • Share via Twitter
  • Share via Google

Related

Filed Under: Retro Garments

« Sewing with a Plan: My 5 Must-Haves for Fall/Winter
The 1929 Pansy Dress »

Comments

  1. Gillian says

    April 11, 2017 at 6:55 am

    Tanya
    can I ask your advice please? I’ve also asked Jenny – but you’ve had experience with this dress… so…

    I’m looking at making Simplicity 1459 – a reissued 1950s shirt dress, with fitted bodice, wide collar and full gathered skirt. My measurements of bust 45″, waist 40″, and hips 52″, put me in the largest size (give or take!). My high bust is 40″, and I’m in a bra of 38″/40″DD… My normal thought would be to take the size 18, and do a FBA of 2.5″ on both sides, giving me a total extra of 5″ across the bust. This coupled with not sewing the back darts (2 at 1″ each) and reducing the front darts from 1.5″ to 1″, would give me an extra (5″ plus 3″=) 8″ at my waist, which would resolve my waist of 40″ versus the size 18’s waist of 32″. The gathered skirt would negate the need for hip adjustments. I’d also use the standard size 18 sleeves without needing any adjustment there. I’d probably have to shorten the bodice at some point, too.

    In theory – great.

    In practice, would it be simpler/more stylistically in keeping with the pattern to just go for the largest size, 24, with bust of 46″, waist of 39″, and hips of 48″ and then narrow the shoulder down? The waist, with the design and wearing ease, would fit over my waist; as mentioned, the hips would not be an issue due to the gathered nature of the skirt. There would be room for the full bust; I’d just need to narrow the shoulders (to an 18 and then perhaps a smidge more as i do have narrow shoulders).

    could you talk me through which i should do, and why I would or would not do it? I’m having a ‘physics’ moment (ie. it makes sense at the point it’s being explained to me, but thereafter i’m at sea again).

    many thanks

    Gillian

  2. Craftastrophies says

    September 13, 2016 at 5:15 am

    Oh wow I love this! That colour is just wonderful on you too.

    Can I ask, have you ever worn this with a cardigan or similar? I have one of these almost done but I stopped because I couldn’t decide whether to put on sleeves or leave it sleeveless. I like it more sleeveless like yours but I also would like to be able to wear it to work, where I definitely need sleeves or else a cardi to battle the airconditioning. I found the collar made any and all tops look just silly, so the dress is still sitting unfinished until I figure out what to do with it.

    • tanyamaile says

      September 14, 2016 at 10:52 am

      Thanks, Kate! I haven’t worn this particular S1459 with a cardi, but the other two I made with this pattern (both sleeveless) have been worn with cardigans and they work just fine. I haven’t made a version with sleeves yet.

      • Craftastrophies says

        September 18, 2016 at 2:13 am

        Hmm maybe I need to work on a different style of cardigan. Or try it on again when I’m not already feeling cross! 😛

  3. Sewbiwan says

    September 11, 2016 at 7:52 pm

    It’s gorgeous! I love the color and the details! I saw that movie just a week ago, with my friend Clare who also sews. She and I were going nuts. “Oh, I LOVE THAT SWEATER!” Then five minutes later, “OH I LOVE THAT DRESS!” We couldn’t get enough. I’ve started to watch movies for the clothes.

    • tanyamaile says

      September 14, 2016 at 10:53 am

      Thank you!! Yes, that movie and all of the clothes in it are to die for! I especially love how she wears different pieces again and again and alters each look with accessories.

  4. Mother of Reinvention says

    September 5, 2016 at 12:35 pm

    What a gorgeous dress. The colour is so sunny and looks great on you. I really like the belt buckle and the piping details. I am going to go look up the “Brooklyn” movie now as I haven’t seen it. Thanks for sharing about iit and your beautiful dress. Xx

    • tanyamaile says

      September 14, 2016 at 10:54 am

      Thank you! Brooklyn is such a great film. I’m sure you’ll enjoy it. 🙂

  5. Lety says

    September 1, 2016 at 7:42 am

    That color is perfect on you! Brooklyn is a fantastic movie, you have paid a lovely homage.

    • tanyamaile says

      September 14, 2016 at 10:54 am

      Thank you, Lety! I’d love to make another dress from the film in the future!

  6. Amanda Adams says

    August 29, 2016 at 3:04 am

    This is such a sunshine-y delight! What a fabulous Brooklyn homage 😀

    • tanyamaile says

      September 14, 2016 at 10:54 am

      Thanks, Amanda! 🙂

  7. Lynsey says

    August 26, 2016 at 12:30 am

    This dress is so vibrant and gorgeous, I love the notch collar (I’m too scared to attempt one) it looks great on.

    • tanyamaile says

      September 14, 2016 at 10:55 am

      Thanks, Lynsey! The notch collar isn’t so bad too make. Just make sure to grade the seams and trim closely around the notches. You can definitely do it!

  8. Melissa Sugrue says

    August 25, 2016 at 6:45 pm

    Ooh I bought this pattern on the spur of the moment but I’ve been too afraid to try it! Yours is simply divine!

    • tanyamaile says

      September 14, 2016 at 10:55 am

      Thanks, Melissa! You should make one!!! It’s not that difficult and has good instructions.

  9. judy roberson says

    August 25, 2016 at 6:15 pm

    So pretty, I love it.

    • tanyamaile says

      September 14, 2016 at 10:56 am

      Thanks, Judy! 🙂

  10. Carlee McTavish says

    August 25, 2016 at 10:17 am

    So bright and cheery!!! And I love the bee accessories. Well done 🙂

    • tanyamaile says

      September 14, 2016 at 10:56 am

      Thanks, Carlee! I think the bees go well with it. 🙂 I wore it the first time with pineapples.

  • Bloglovin
  • Email
  • Facebook
  • Flickr
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • RSS
  • Twitter

Subscribe to Blog via Email

My Favorites

  • The 1920’s Egyptian Revival Gown
  • The Embroidered Zig Zag Dress
  • The 1929 Pansy Dress
  • The 1930’s Silk Velvet Dress
  • Sailors are My Weakness [The Dorothy Lara Dress]
  • The California Poppy Blouse
  • The 1950’s Robin Hood Dress
  • The Broderie Anglaise Birthday Dress

Categories

Archives

“Dress Like Your Grandma” Host

Behind the Scenes on Instagram @tanyamaile

Meet my new favorite dress! This is the @gertie18 Meet my new favorite dress! This is the @gertie18 Charm #cinchitdress in cotton linen from @lafinchfabrics . It is my third and favorite version thus far. I did several alterations to this pattern for both fit and preference. This is a size 22/24 in upper cup sizes. I'm not sure if it's because I am on the lower end of the bust sizes at a D, but I raised the bust darts and also raised the shirring line a few inches. I took a wedge out of the back for a swayback adjustment, raised the armholes as they're too low for me and lowered the neckline slit. This version has the banded collar. Other versions I've made have sleeves and no collar. I also lengthened the skirt and am wearing my lightweight petticoat with this. It's difficult to see, but this version has a triangular pocket from a similar vintage 1950's tent dress pattern, which I also used to add more width to the shoulders and create a bit of a sleeve, which I'll be extending out more for my 4th Cinch-It dress. I just had my second dose of the Pfizer vax, so if I feel okay, I'll be cutting out another dress. 😉

This is a great every day dress. It's so comfortable and quick to sew. Without a belt or shirring, it looks a bit like a muu muu, which really isn't a bad thing, but I like some waist definition. My first one I made out of rayon challis, and that's a bit too drapey IMO for this pattern and I prefer this cotton linen and version 2 in chambray, which I'll share when I finish with the appliques and pockets on that. I love this pattern so much that I was going to use one of my treasured vintage Hawaiian fabrics, but didn't have enough yardage to cut this pattern out as that 50's fabric is narrow.  Now that I have this pattern fitted exactly how I want it to, I may just sew 5 or 6. 😉

#charmpatterns #lafinchfabrics #polynesianAF #vintagesewing #plussizesewing #sewistsofinstagram  #sewistsofcolor #curvysewingcollective #sewing #1950ssewing
I made a dress and took photos of it! 💃💃 Thi I made a dress and took photos of it! 💃💃 This is a @gertie18 Charm Lamour Dress and Dorothy Bolero made of cotton linen from @lafinchfabrics. 

#lamourdress #dorothybolero #charmpatterns #1950sfashion #plussizevintage #vintagedressmaking #vintagesewing #lafinchfabrics #curvysewingcollective
My new hussif/housewife sewing wrap that I made in My new hussif/housewife sewing wrap that I made in @the_sewing_room_alameda 's class at the @gbacg virtual costume academy last weekend. I sewed it in class and added the binding today. I love how it uses remnants and that I had everything to make it in my sewing room. It was perfect for this little piece of vintage fabric (printed off grain). I'm planning to make another one to go in my 18th pockets and do some embroidery on it.
I feel incredibly grateful that I've had my first I feel incredibly grateful that I've had my first dose of the Pfizer Covid-19 vaccine. My husband (a teacher) has also had his first dose. It feels like being on the path to some sense of normalcy and being able to breathe again after a tumultuous year. I'm also looking forward to seeing my grandma and my aunt who is in a care home -- both of whom I haven't seen since before this pandemic began.

If you're curious, as I live in California and we are not doing great amongst the states with our vaccine administration (currently ranked 38) and my county has not reached my age group yet. On Monday, I became eligible in my state as high risk due to BMI (fat privilege!). I would have had to jump through hoops and wait to get a shot at the only vaccine option  my county has (I was on the list), and looked for other options. Our state vaccine website (MyTurn) gave me clinics in other counties which I am not eligible for as I'm not a resident or worker. VaccineFinder gave me locations at area pharmacies and I tried to get an appointment and they were all booked. Finally, a friend told me about Walgreens and I went on their website and made an appointment on Tuesday and had my first shot today. 🎉🎉
This lady head brooch by @lipstickandchrome really This lady head brooch by @lipstickandchrome really made my day. Thanks to @wanderingwhipstitch for telling me about it. 💖
It was pretty unbelievable when my husband and I f It was pretty unbelievable when my husband and I found these Pyrex orange butterprint Cinderella bowls at a thrift store the other day. The orange (along with pink) butterprint were promotional pyrex from the late 1950's/early 1960's and very hard to find. I never thought that I'd have some in my collection as I've never seen these for sale in person and there are so many pyrex collectors in my area. These are mint, but missing the 444 (largest size). At $75, these were not a thrift store price, but a steal considering the current going rate. Plus, I love them, which makes them valuable to me. I rearranged this hutch of my favorites so they could be displayed there. 😊

#pyrex #vintagepyrex #pyrexcollector #orangebutterprint #rarepyrex #pyrexcollection
Today, @mommarainbows and I had a Castle Cake-Off. Today, @mommarainbows and I had a Castle Cake-Off. Who wins? We both do. 🤣 I present to you my Count Chocula cake. 🧛‍♂️ It's a chocolate malt cake with malt fudge sauce, chocolate malt frosting, malt crumble and some somewhat charred marshmallows. I used the recipe from the Milk Bar. 

This is the fanciest bundt cake I've ever made as I usually just pour a glaze on with coconut, sprinkles or berries.
Just finished: A crewelwork pillow with California Just finished: A crewelwork pillow with California poppies and bachelor buttons. I made this from a vintage 1970's Bucilla crewel embroidery kit. This is the second Bucilla crewel kit that I've made and I just love using them. I was fortunate to find this one with my state's flower on it and it was a pretty quick embroidery project.

#bucilla #crewelembroidery #crewelwork #embroidery #handembroidery #1970sembroidery #1970sstyle #californiapoppy
Follow on Instagram
Copyright 2012-2021. Tanya Maile Hughes. All rights reserved. Please do not copy or reproduce any content from this site without approval and credit. Sewing graphics by katieshoestring and California poppy graphics by DigitalDesignsAndArt

Mrs. Hughes: A retro inspired, vintage garment sewing and plus-size dressmaking blog by Tanya Maile Hughes.

  • About
  • My Closet
  • Tutorials

Copyright © 2021 · Adorn theme by Restored 316

Copyright © 2021 · Adorn Theme on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in