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A 1960’s Inspired Phoebe Shift Dress

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Hello, folks!

I’ve got something a little different today — a 1960’s inspired shift dress!  This dress was made as part of Sew Your Hart Out September with Harts Fabric, along with Colette Patterns and Robert Kaufman fabrics.  I wrote a tutorial on Harts’ site on how I made the retro button-on-belt featured on this dress.

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Source: Colette Patterns

Source: Colette Patterns

I was paired with Colette and Robert Kaufman and asked to write a tutorial for a pattern hack.  I chose the Phoebe shift dress, which was one that I honestly wasn’t smitten with, but I figured it would be a good base for some retro details.  The fabric is RK linen from the Caroline Friedlander collection.  It’s a light denim color with a metallic gold design, which kind of fades out in photos.  I decided that some gold buttons would help to bring out the gold in this fabric and turn an otherwise plain dress into something more unique.  These vintage gold buttons in my stash were perfect for the look I was going for.

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I made this dress out of the size 20/22 in version 2.  I added 3″ to the skirt length with a 1 1/2″ hem.  It has a slight swayback adjustment (I could probably take out a little more) and the bodice is lined with a yellowish gold cotton voile.  I added a v-slit to the neckline as I found it to be a bit constricting.

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Before I added the belt detail, I was trying this dress on and my husband walked in and thought I was wearing a muslin mock-up of it.  That tells you how plain it initially looked!  The button band adds what this dress needs without changing the integrity of the design.  I don’t like to “hack” patterns up too much as it seems like you’re changing the designer’s vision, but adding embellishments and little details help to make the design your own.

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This is a very different silhouette for me and not one I gravitate towards as I don’t like to anything slim-fitting on my lower half.  However, this dress isn’t tailored and skims my curves rather than clinging to them.  The design is meant to transition into colder weather as a jumper, so you definitely wouldn’t want a tight bodice if you’re planning to wear a blouse underneath.  I’m not a fan of jumpers, so I’ll never be wearing this with an undershirt.  I do like a bit of ease, especially in a style like this.  My idea of a fall transition piece would be to wear this with a cardi and my gold loafers and I’m looking forward to doing just that.

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This dress was a really quick sew and I might sew up this pattern again in the future in a corduroy or something along those lines.  I felt very chic sporting this frock and like I was going out to attend some type of swinging soiree.

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Note:  I received both the fabric and the pattern in return for writing a tutorial.  As always, these are my honest thoughts and opinions.

Happy Sewing!

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  • Dress:  Colette Phoebe in linen, made by me
  • Shoes:  Stuart Weitzman
  • Earrings:  Vintage from my grandma’s jewelry box

 

 

Comments

  2. I’ve followed your blog for some time now and I must admit this is one of my very favorite things you’ve made. Chic, stylish and sophisticated.

    I adore what you have done with it. The belt just brings it to the next level.

  3. This is an amazing dress. What a different silhouette. It looks so chic on you. The color of the dress and accessories are just spot on.

    • Thanks, Mariah! It’s definitely a different silhouette for me. I look forward to making another in corduroy as I think it will look great with tights and boots and a sweater.

  4. You look so fab in this. I love the hack, it has really given the dress a sort of swinging Jackie-O vibe. I think that this silhouette is perfect on you too. The dress looks gorgeous. Xx

  5. This is quite a bit different than you usual style, but I think this looks really good on you. It is very slimming. Nice to know we can wear more than just one silhouette.

  6. Where do I start? The fabric is beautiful–I’m going to have to find a swatch of this. RK has some great fabrics. I love how you adapted this pattern. I would totally overlook all those buttons on a dress, but the half belt makes a nice focal point. I think the slimmer skirt looks great on you too. The more I see slimmer skirts on all body types, the more convinced I become that I think pencil (or leaning towards pencil) silhouettes are way more universally flattering than a-lines.

    • Thanks, Elizabeth! I love Robert Kaufman fabrics. I’ve never been disappointed with any that I’ve sewn with. I like the look of the double button style on the Phoebe, but not sure how much I’d actually l like to wear it. Maybe in the right fabric/color. I do think pencil skirts are universally flattering if they have the right fit for the person wearing them. Some patterns can be a little too tight in some areas, but it’s probably has to do more with a persons preference.

  7. Wow, I like that. You did such a nice job, and it looks great on you. I’m like you, I’ve always avoided that silhouette because I don’t like anything slim fitting on my lower half, either. But you look so good, that I may try that pattern just to see how it looks on me.

    • Thanks, Leighann! I think it depends on how a pattern fits as to whether I like it on my lower half or not. I should probably do a tummy adjustment if something doesn’t fit the way I want it to, but as I prefer fuller skirts, I generally don’t need to. Thankfully this pattern didn’t require much adjustment.

  8. Your dress looks fab, it fits you really well and you very sophisticated, the button on belt is a great feature

  9. It’s super cute on you. I love the idea of making one in corduroy. I love the shape of this dress and Carolyn Friedlander is one of my all time favorite fabric designers. Good choice.

    • Thanks, Natasha! Yes, I have some corduroy in my stash I should bust out to make one of these for the cold weather that I hope is coming.. (it is cooler today!)

  11. This looks SO cute on you! Or maybe it’s you that looks so cute and the dress is just along for the ride, I can’t tell 😛 It’s a silhoutte I tend to avoid too but it looks like the perfect amount of ease. Not too vavavoom, comfy and elegant. And the belt hack makes it!

  12. I agree with what’s been said–it’s a great style and color on you, especially with your new hair style.

    • Thanks, Robin! I was afraid the fabric looked a little too 80’s faded denim, but I like it! I don’t think I have much of this color in my closet.

  14. wauw, I think this dress is very flattering on you, I have no clue why you would avoid this more fitted bottom than usual. I think it suits you.

  15. Love your shorter hair! And the dress is lovely as well – the button belt detail really makes it special. If you make this pattern again will you change the front neckline shape? Personally I like a v-neck on you.

  16. This is really cute and looks lovely on you. It reminds me of the first dress I ever sewed all by myself, 1965, 5th grade, 11 years old! And it was completely lined, my Moms said I should learn how to do it. So glad and grateful, Mom, for you teaching me your skills!! And, yes, she is still alive and going strong, at 95, but no longer sews. Her fingers are numb from holding a needle for so many years, sewing, quilting, knitting, and since she can’t feel the needle. she can’t sew. I love you. Mom!!

    And, Tanya, you do fantastic work!! I so enjoy reading this blog!

    • Thank you! What a lovely story of your early sewing and your mother. 🙂 My grandma taught me to sew and she was also a fabulous knitter, but she couldn’t knit or sew in her later years due to the arthritis in her hands. That’s such a horrible affliction for one who likes to make things.

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Mrs. Hughes: A retro inspired, vintage garment sewing and plus-size dressmaking blog by Tanya Maile Hughes.