Mrs. Hughes

Retro Inspired Sewing

  • About
    • About Tanya
    • Featured
    • Contact Me
  • My Closet
  • Tutorials
You are here: Home / Retro Garments / 1940’s Emerald Green and Tartan [Simplicity 8243]

1940’s Emerald Green and Tartan [Simplicity 8243]

11/28/2016

1-label

Hello, friends!

It’s that time of the year again, isn’t it?  I usually sew a new Christmas dress, but this year I made separates.  SEPARATES, y’all!  Both of these items coincide with some sewing goals I have for myself.  The first is Shirtmaking Month that we’re currently hosting at the Curvy Sewing Collective and second is my Vintage Capsule Wardrobe Sewing that I’ve been planning with help and encouragement from the FB group of the same name created and administered by the lovely and knowledgeable Andrea.

My capsule wardrobe is vintage inspired and uses a mix of vintage patterns, vintage re-issues and modern patterns.  It also fits in with my own challenge to sew five items that are much needed in my closet (two of which I’ve already completed!).  My capsule colors are:  green, navy, red, ivory and black, which you may notice from what I have sewn recently and what I’ll be sharing in the future.  My wardrobe really lacks cold weather clothing, so having a plan and coordinating the pieces is really going to make it easier for me to get dressed.

14656378_10153833673602407_1289211643794762026_n

Patterns for my fall/winter capsule wardrobe

On with my outfit!  I used Simplicity 8243 to make my blouse.  I had been looking for 1940’s vintage blouse patterns for some time before Simplicity released this pattern.  I love the collar and it’s modern sizing, so I went for it.  I did already review it on the CSC if you want to check that out.

Source: Simplicity Patterns

Source: Simplicity Patterns

I used this gorgeous emerald green stretch cotton shirting that I picked up at Britex Fabrics in San Francisco last month.  I rarely look at the solid colored fabrics at Britex, and boy, was I missing out.  I was shopping with my MIL and she had picked this fabric up in another colorway and it had me as first touch.  This fabric is sublime.  It has a bit of a shimmery sheen to it.  It’s so wonderful to sew with and wear that I’m definitely picking some more up the next time I stop in at Britex.

emerald-1940s-blouse-and-plaid-skirt1

I enlarged this pattern to about a size 26/28 and did a full bicep adjustment.  I also added sleeve cuffs as the vintage photo on the pattern cover has the cuffs and the pattern does not.  Next time I’m planning to add a little more width to the sleeves.  I’m never quite certain how much ease I’ll need for a sleeve, especially when one wants one a little more fitted than baggy.  This cotton has stretch, so it doesn’t bother me if they’re a little tighter than my ideal sleeve would be.  With my next version, I’d also put the buttons a little closer to the edge than the pattern suggested.

emerald-1940s-blouse-and-plaid-skirt2

This pattern has a different approach to sewing the collar than I’ve ever encountered.  It has a facing that acts an upper collar.  The instructions are well written and walk you through the process, so there wasn’t any head scratching involved.  I enclosed all of the seam allowances with Hug Snug rayon seam binding, also using it as hem tape.  There’s a lot of hand sewing as my sometimes uneven handstitching can attest to.  I might make my next version of this shirt a little longer, but it works well tucked in to high-waisted skirts, which is most often how I will be wearing this.  Below, you can see how it looks untucked.  There are vents/slits (is that what they’re called?) at the side seams which make it easy to wear untucked.

dscn5222

My skirt is a “self-drafted” pleated number.  I had considered using the vintage 40’s pattern in my capsule sewing photo at the beginning of this post, but decided that I didn’t want to hassle with re-sizing that small pattern (waist 30″) when I made this skirt.  Instead, I cut my fabric to the length I wanted it, which was basically cutting my fabric width in half (it’s very wide) and using each piece for the front and back.  I pinned it on my dressform, decided on the size of my pleats and started pinning them with help from my ruler.  After I finished the first piece (which was the back), I did the front piece in the same fashion before cutting out a waistband and putting in an invisible side zipper.  The center pleats are sewn down.  I had them all sewn down, but had forgotten that I would have needed to curve the side seams of my skirt in order for them to lay properly.  The center pleat in front does go askew a bit towards the bottom, but it did fall correctly in line later on (of course, after these photos were taken).

dscn5248

I used this luxurious wool tartan that I picked up on the remnant floor at Britex a couple of years ago.  I always envisioned making a skirt with it and now I finally have.  This wool is a dark chocolate brown and emerald green with metallic gold strands running through it.  It’s difficult to see in photos how beautiful it is.  And yes, more Hong Kong seams.

back-tucked-in

I decided to fray the hemline, which I accomplished all during an episode of Indian Summers.  It gives that kilt-like appearance, but it also meant that I didn’t have to hem this skirt.  Win-win.  This skirt is a little scratchy (duh, wool).  I considered lining it, but I’m lazy and didn’t want to.  Wearing either a slip or tights/leggings will suffice.

dscn5255

I tell ya what.  I am super in love with this skirt.  I really don’t know why it took me so long to take this fabric out of the stash and make a damn skirt with it.  For a brief time I had been considering making a shawl with it, but a skirt will suit me more as I’ve inherited a chest full of wool tartan shawls and shawl-like toppers.  One needs more skirts and this one loves tartan, so this is somewhat of a utilitarian piece for me that will be worn past Christmas and for years to come.  Maybe a couple of the aforementioned wool toppers need to be refashioned into skirts as well.

3

I probably should have worn some retro sunnies, but these are polarized and I have an eye condition, so I get a pass

Rollie agrees that we love this outfit. <3

dscn5242

And here’s the skirt paired with a sweater that I already had in this year’s Hughes family Christmas photo. The two Bostons are Guinness (in my arm) and Rollie (in my husbands’).   The Border Collies are Doc (B&W) and Laddie, our new red/white pup that we adopted from the Border Collie Rescue of Northern California a couple of months ago.  It ain’t easy taking pics with dogs! 🙂

2

Happy Sewing!

poppy signature

  • Blouse:  Simplicity 8243 in stretch cotton shirting, made by me
  • Skirt:  Self-drafted in wool tartan, made by me
  • Shoes:  Aerosoles
  • Sunglasses:  Tory Burch
Share this:
  • Share via Email
  • Share via Facebook
  • Share via Pinterest
  • Share via Ravelry
  • Share via Twitter
  • Share via Google

Related

Filed Under: Retro Garments

« A Wool Melton Claremont Coat
A Navy Organic Cotton Turner Dress »

Comments

  1. Studio JF says

    July 3, 2017 at 12:19 am

    Really nice dear. I plan to sew this patter, blouse and pants and I will love to insert the pats shoulders like you say. Thanks for your lovely review.

  2. Lety says

    December 5, 2016 at 1:31 pm

    I love the brown combined with green! Very classy look. I forget how pretty brown is until it’s combined so nicely.

    • tanyamaile says

      December 8, 2016 at 3:12 pm

      Thank you, Lety! This might be the only brown in my closet!

  3. Carlee McTavish says

    December 3, 2016 at 11:04 am

    I mean you definitely need more doggie pics lol but besides that these are stellar! The skirt is so pretty and the top looks perfect with it. Another home run 🙂

    • tanyamaile says

      December 8, 2016 at 3:12 pm

      Thanks, Carlee! One always needs more doggie pics! 🙂

  4. Kristen says

    November 30, 2016 at 9:24 am

    I’m so excited to see Vogue 8333 in your pattern stash! I’ve been in love with that pattern since I saw it, and just ordered it on Black Friday. The pocket detail got my attention, and I think the buttons will hit me where I want them. My skills aren’t up to making the pattern yet, so I’ll be watching your blog for a review. 🙂

    • tanyamaile says

      December 8, 2016 at 3:11 pm

      I’ve had it a while and have been putting off making it. Hopefully it will start on after Christmas!

  5. Craftastrophies says

    November 29, 2016 at 4:24 pm

    This outfit is so wonderful! I love that collar on the shirt. Butterick 6055 which is a vintage reprint has that same collar/facing treatment. I think it works really well. And that fabric looks so good – it looks comfy to wear but the sheen makes it seem fancy. I would say it’s a great colour on you but I’ve seen you in a rainbow of colours and they always look fantastic on you so I’m getting a bit redundant at this point!

    • tanyamaile says

      December 8, 2016 at 3:10 pm

      Thanks, Kate!! I have that dress pattern, but have yet to sew it up. I always find is refreshing when I sew something with a new to me technique.

  6. Beth_SunnyGalStudio says

    November 29, 2016 at 9:40 am

    This outfit is fantastic on you. I love a traditional pleated wool skirt and this fabric is perfect. You look great in this shade of green – jewel tones are so nice on you. Love the holiday card photo 🙂

    • tanyamaile says

      November 29, 2016 at 3:00 pm

      Thank you, Beth. 🙂 I’m finding that I love to wear jewel tones most of all,so maybe they are “my colors.”

  7. Kerry (Kestrel Makes) says

    November 29, 2016 at 5:07 am

    Love these two items together but the skirt in particular is beautiful. Love the Christmas photo too with your gorgeous dogs – they must keep you busy! x

    • tanyamaile says

      November 29, 2016 at 3:03 pm

      Thanks, Kerry! Yes, I imagine I’m going to be wearing that skirt for a long time! 🙂 The dogs definitely keep us busy — especially the Border collies!

  8. Angela Dent says

    November 29, 2016 at 12:58 am

    Wow, what a gorgeous outfit! I love reading your blog, you are such an inspiration. I am new to sewing and am waiting for my adjustaform dummy to arrive so I can really get into my sewing projects. I have learnt a lot from your posts and you have really inspired me to start on my sewing journey. I’ll let you know how I progress! Thanks again for your posts. I know they take time and effort to write, but I really appreciate them.

    • tanyamaile says

      November 29, 2016 at 3:04 pm

      Thanks, Angela! Have fun with your dress form. Mine is like an extra hand in my sewing room and really helps me with the fit on my garments. I’d love to see what you’re making!

  • Bloglovin
  • Email
  • Facebook
  • Flickr
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • RSS
  • Twitter

Subscribe to Blog via Email

My Favorites

  • The 1920’s Egyptian Revival Gown
  • The Embroidered Zig Zag Dress
  • The 1929 Pansy Dress
  • The 1930’s Silk Velvet Dress
  • Sailors are My Weakness [The Dorothy Lara Dress]
  • The California Poppy Blouse
  • The 1950’s Robin Hood Dress
  • The Broderie Anglaise Birthday Dress

Categories

Archives

“Dress Like Your Grandma” Host

Behind the Scenes on Instagram @tanyamaile

Meet my new favorite dress! This is the @gertie18 Meet my new favorite dress! This is the @gertie18 Charm #cinchitdress in cotton linen from @lafinchfabrics . It is my third and favorite version thus far. I did several alterations to this pattern for both fit and preference. This is a size 22/24 in upper cup sizes. I'm not sure if it's because I am on the lower end of the bust sizes at a D, but I raised the bust darts and also raised the shirring line a few inches. I took a wedge out of the back for a swayback adjustment, raised the armholes as they're too low for me and lowered the neckline slit. This version has the banded collar. Other versions I've made have sleeves and no collar. I also lengthened the skirt and am wearing my lightweight petticoat with this. It's difficult to see, but this version has a triangular pocket from a similar vintage 1950's tent dress pattern, which I also used to add more width to the shoulders and create a bit of a sleeve, which I'll be extending out more for my 4th Cinch-It dress. I just had my second dose of the Pfizer vax, so if I feel okay, I'll be cutting out another dress. 😉

This is a great every day dress. It's so comfortable and quick to sew. Without a belt or shirring, it looks a bit like a muu muu, which really isn't a bad thing, but I like some waist definition. My first one I made out of rayon challis, and that's a bit too drapey IMO for this pattern and I prefer this cotton linen and version 2 in chambray, which I'll share when I finish with the appliques and pockets on that. I love this pattern so much that I was going to use one of my treasured vintage Hawaiian fabrics, but didn't have enough yardage to cut this pattern out as that 50's fabric is narrow.  Now that I have this pattern fitted exactly how I want it to, I may just sew 5 or 6. 😉

#charmpatterns #lafinchfabrics #polynesianAF #vintagesewing #plussizesewing #sewistsofinstagram  #sewistsofcolor #curvysewingcollective #sewing #1950ssewing
I made a dress and took photos of it! 💃💃 Thi I made a dress and took photos of it! 💃💃 This is a @gertie18 Charm Lamour Dress and Dorothy Bolero made of cotton linen from @lafinchfabrics. 

#lamourdress #dorothybolero #charmpatterns #1950sfashion #plussizevintage #vintagedressmaking #vintagesewing #lafinchfabrics #curvysewingcollective
My new hussif/housewife sewing wrap that I made in My new hussif/housewife sewing wrap that I made in @the_sewing_room_alameda 's class at the @gbacg virtual costume academy last weekend. I sewed it in class and added the binding today. I love how it uses remnants and that I had everything to make it in my sewing room. It was perfect for this little piece of vintage fabric (printed off grain). I'm planning to make another one to go in my 18th pockets and do some embroidery on it.
I feel incredibly grateful that I've had my first I feel incredibly grateful that I've had my first dose of the Pfizer Covid-19 vaccine. My husband (a teacher) has also had his first dose. It feels like being on the path to some sense of normalcy and being able to breathe again after a tumultuous year. I'm also looking forward to seeing my grandma and my aunt who is in a care home -- both of whom I haven't seen since before this pandemic began.

If you're curious, as I live in California and we are not doing great amongst the states with our vaccine administration (currently ranked 38) and my county has not reached my age group yet. On Monday, I became eligible in my state as high risk due to BMI (fat privilege!). I would have had to jump through hoops and wait to get a shot at the only vaccine option  my county has (I was on the list), and looked for other options. Our state vaccine website (MyTurn) gave me clinics in other counties which I am not eligible for as I'm not a resident or worker. VaccineFinder gave me locations at area pharmacies and I tried to get an appointment and they were all booked. Finally, a friend told me about Walgreens and I went on their website and made an appointment on Tuesday and had my first shot today. 🎉🎉
This lady head brooch by @lipstickandchrome really This lady head brooch by @lipstickandchrome really made my day. Thanks to @wanderingwhipstitch for telling me about it. 💖
It was pretty unbelievable when my husband and I f It was pretty unbelievable when my husband and I found these Pyrex orange butterprint Cinderella bowls at a thrift store the other day. The orange (along with pink) butterprint were promotional pyrex from the late 1950's/early 1960's and very hard to find. I never thought that I'd have some in my collection as I've never seen these for sale in person and there are so many pyrex collectors in my area. These are mint, but missing the 444 (largest size). At $75, these were not a thrift store price, but a steal considering the current going rate. Plus, I love them, which makes them valuable to me. I rearranged this hutch of my favorites so they could be displayed there. 😊

#pyrex #vintagepyrex #pyrexcollector #orangebutterprint #rarepyrex #pyrexcollection
Today, @mommarainbows and I had a Castle Cake-Off. Today, @mommarainbows and I had a Castle Cake-Off. Who wins? We both do. 🤣 I present to you my Count Chocula cake. 🧛‍♂️ It's a chocolate malt cake with malt fudge sauce, chocolate malt frosting, malt crumble and some somewhat charred marshmallows. I used the recipe from the Milk Bar. 

This is the fanciest bundt cake I've ever made as I usually just pour a glaze on with coconut, sprinkles or berries.
Just finished: A crewelwork pillow with California Just finished: A crewelwork pillow with California poppies and bachelor buttons. I made this from a vintage 1970's Bucilla crewel embroidery kit. This is the second Bucilla crewel kit that I've made and I just love using them. I was fortunate to find this one with my state's flower on it and it was a pretty quick embroidery project.

#bucilla #crewelembroidery #crewelwork #embroidery #handembroidery #1970sembroidery #1970sstyle #californiapoppy
Follow on Instagram
Copyright 2012-2021. Tanya Maile Hughes. All rights reserved. Please do not copy or reproduce any content from this site without approval and credit. Sewing graphics by katieshoestring and California poppy graphics by DigitalDesignsAndArt

Mrs. Hughes: A retro inspired, vintage garment sewing and plus-size dressmaking blog by Tanya Maile Hughes.

  • About
  • My Closet
  • Tutorials

Copyright © 2021 · Adorn theme by Restored 316

Copyright © 2021 · Adorn Theme on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in