Hello, friends!
I’m astoundingly happy to finally share my silk trench coat with you! I started this coat a year ago and finally completed it. No, I did not work on it for a year — it was a WIP that became a UFO (acronyms!) and then I decided that I needed to finish it so that I could finally wear it!
Ever since the release of the Sewaholic Robson I have loved it. There are so many beautiful versions of this coat and I had the pattern several months before I decided on a fabric for it. This pattern takes A LOT of fabric (6+ yards) and has A LOT of buttons. I already have two traditional RTW trench coats in rain ready material, so I decided that I wanted to make a luxe version of the Robson. I figured that pink would be a great color for my coat as it would go with many dresses in my wardrobe and that silk faille would be a great fabric choice as it’s both sturdy and luxurious. I waited patiently for a good price for my dream fabric and found it at Fabric Mart for $10/yard. Such a steal! The next hurdle was to find enough buttons (16!). After not finding any buttons that I felt would work, I decided on self-covered buttons and purchased several kits from Grey’s Fabrics. The end result was exactly what I envisioned and I couldn’t be happier!
Making this coat was very tedious. There are so many pattern pieces to contend with and I also graded it up from a 16 to about a size 24, which makes this coat a more difficult process to undertake. I also had several things I had to undo, like sewing two wrong pieces together (and then serging them….) and having to unpick a multitude of seams. I would suggest marking your pieces with chalk to not make such an error. I also sewed a row of buttonholes and had to unpick them, which was a REALLY dreary job. Fortunately, I was able to fix my mistakes with no record of them on my coat.
As if grading this coat up four sizes wasn’t enough, I also fully lined it. The Robson pattern is unlined, so this a tricky detail if you aren’t accustomed to lining coats. I used a pink rayon polka dot fabric that I had in my stash. It’s not quite the same shade of pink as my coat, but I think it blends well. Plus, I had just barely enough to line it. I did a lot of hand sewing around the facings and initially sewed the lining into the hem, which didn’t work. When my coat was on my dressform, it hung beautifully, but when I put it on, the lining pulled on the hem of the coat. After discussing this issue with my sewing buds on Instagram, we decided that the sleeves were pulling the lining and distorting the shape, so I took out all of my hemming stitches and made the lining hang free, with French tacks to hold it in place.
I don’t know about you, but I just love the little details like the epaulets and sleeve tabs and I think they pair perfectly with my self-covered buttons. Everything is top-stitched, so it adds a professional element along with keeping everything in place. I also added one of my labels, which I sewed on to the facing piece before construction. It’s a twill tape label that my MIL embroidered on her embroidery machine a long time ago and I occasionally use. I cut them to size and burned the edges to stop fraying. Someday, I’d like to have some really nice professional ones made.
A little tip: I used water soluble stabilizer on the underside of my buttonholes when sewing them. It helped the fabric glide through and made pretty perfect buttonholes. It also made it easier to remove my buttonhole mistakes.
In addition to re-sizing this pattern, I also adjusted the sleeves to fit. The sleeves have two pieces, which I enlarged, but I also ended up adding a third piece to get them to fit like I wanted. I added some small pleats to the shoulders to not only accommodate my larger sleeves, but also to add a little bit of retro femininity.
As with other Sewaholic patterns I’ve made, the instructions lead through the sewing process and make what could be an intimidating project into a manageable one. I didn’t get confused until working with the button placement. The instructions and pattern pieces both show you where to place the buttons, but it didn’t truly click in my head until I studied the buttons on one of my RTW trench coats. I do still have one extra button to add to the front as it was missing and I just recently found it. (The joys of having unfinished projects laying around when you move your sewing room!)
This really is a satisfying make. I stopped work on it last year when the weather turned warm and I wasn’t into sewing it. It got put to the side until I forced myself to finish it after Christmas, along with some other incomplete projects.
If I were to make this again, I’d probably do a small swayback adjustment and perhaps a small FBA as well. Don’t get me wrong — I’m VERY HAPPY with the outcome of this coat and I ABSOLUTELY LOVE wearing it. It makes me feel so beautiful and chic and puts a smile on my face. But if I’m being critical to myself, that’s what I would do. Of course, if one made a muslin, they might know that to begin with…
Along with my lovely coat, I’m also happy to share my newest Cashmerette Appleton wrap dress. I wear this dress once a week and it’s a staple in my winter wardrobe. It’s made with the bird print rayon jersey from Jenny’s kits (now sold out), so you may have seen several other versions with this fabric already. I made this Appleton in much the same way as my first non-tester Appleton dress, in that I lengthened the skirt and went up a size in the waist/hips. I found that since I used the recommended fabric (my other Appleton is a cotton double knit) for this dress, that I don’t need to size up and to follow the size chart. I had to take in the adjustments I made, so in the future I will just cut the fabric to my size.
Another goal marked off my list! Even if it took me almost a year to finish it! 🙂
Note: I received both the pattern and the fabric for my Appleton dress in return for testing the pattern in it’s initial stages.
Happy New Year!
- Coat: Sewaholic Robson in fuschia silk faille lined with pink polka dot rayon, made by me
- Dress: Cashmerette Appleton in rayon jersey, made by me
- Shoes: Calvin Klein
- Earrings: Bauble Bar
Tanya Geyer says
Beautiful fit, very nice. Makes me want to start sewing just so I can have clothes that look that good on me.
Carlee McTavish says
Another amazing outfit! That dress looks killer on you and it hurts my brain to think of how much time you must have spent on that jacket.
Laura Poehlman says
You are so gorgeous lady. I marvel!
Alicia @ Pandora Sews says
This coat looks amazing on you! Such an awesome sew!!!
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Alicia! 🙂
Gillian says
This is really beautiful! I hope you wear it for years and years to come!
tanyamaile says
I definitely will!!!!
Valerie Zebra says
Great work on the coat and the dress is beautiful. You look ready for the red carpet.
tanyamaile says
Thank you, Valerie! Plus, it’s such a comfy outfit, too!
Sandra says
The color of the coat is beautiful and goes so well with your coloring! very impressed with your sewing skills! Great job, love the entire outfit!!!
tanyamaile says
Thank you, Sandra!
Toni Salvia-Toth says
So freakin pretty! awesome job!
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Toni! I’m extremely happy with the outcome!
Carol Spooner says
So beautiful on you! What a terrific job you did! What brand of dissolving stabilizer did you use? I just wrecked a shirt with so-called dissolving stabilizer behind the button holes that did NOT dissolve.
tanyamaile says
Thanks! I used Sulky Super Solvy. It’s been working well for me, although I don’t use it for every project.
Jacqueline says
Wow – that is one beautiful coat! You look so fabulous in it. 😍
tanyamaile says
Thanks so much, Jacqueline!
jmdiettrich says
That coat is just phenomenal – I love the bold color and you look beautiful in it!
tanyamaile says
Thank you! I am in so in love with this color!
Sew Quilty says
Beautiful! And such and amazing job grading it up!
tanyamaile says
Thank you! It certainly wasn’t a fun job, but well worth the effort.
Sew Exhausted says
So glad you finished the coat Tanya! It is well worth it. The coat is beautiful and so are you wearing it. You definitely look stylish and chic! Well done!
tanyamaile says
Thank you! It certainly feels like an accomplishment to finish it! I think I will get many years of wear out of it.
Abbey Dabbles says
Tanya, your pattern grading skills are beyond impressive! Plus, this fuchsia coat is HOTNESS!
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Abbey!! It feels awesome to have made this and be able to finally wear it!
Mary Danielson says
Absolutely stunning, Tanya! This pink is sensational on you and that fabric is so, so chic. I’m a little in awe, all around, actually. You did such a gorgeous job! it looks like a really expensive designer coat!
tanyamaile says
Thank you, Mary! Plus it goes with so many things! I think you need a silk coat, too. 🙂
Roary says
The whole look is just beautiful. And that coat is just gorgeous. What a great job you did. Thanks for sharing this.
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Roary! I do love black and pink together! I feel quite accomplished to have made this. 🙂
leighann says
Wow! Very pretty indeed. I love the dress, too.
tanyamaile says
Thank you, Leigh Ann! 🙂 I love the two of them together.
Andie W. says
Tanya, your coat is absolutely gorgeous! And I love the Appleton dress. It’s such a great outfit together, too. I just love it.
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Andie!! I’d love to wear this everyday! I probably need some type of light starch though as the silk faille likes to wrinkle a bit.
Natasha Friegang says
WOW! The coat is AMAZING! I love that color on you. I’m really impressed by your sewing talent. And, of course, I also love the Appleton dress. Everyone I’ve seen made so far has been fabulous. They both look great on you. I completely understand how the summer here makes us not want to sew winter clothes (or quilts!). Just too hot.
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Natasha! At least we’re having cold weather this year! I need to get on with my winter sewing before it’s over!
Katrine LJ says
It’s so lovely I am swooning, the colour and fit – impeccable!
tanyamaile says
Thank you, Katrine! it really was worth the wait, although it’s my own fault that it took me a year to complete.
Sandra Julian says
Your Robson is beautiful. It fits so nice, I had to do a muslin and fiddle with the fit to get mind just right. The fabric and the colour make it so lux – great choices 🙂 Enjoy.
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Sandra! Yours definitely inspired me to finish mine. Just think of all the possibilities to make this coat. Although — who would have the time or the need to have a closet full in different colors/prints and fabric? LOL! 🙂
Meg McCarthy says
This coat gives me serious heart eyes and envy- so beautiful!!
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Meg! I think hot pink can be a neutral, eh? LOL 🙂
ROBIN RUSH says
Beautiful Coat and dress. I like that Appleton with the long sleeves. Very classy, feminine look.
tanyamaile says
Thank you, Robin! I love the two together and am very much into long sleeves at the moment. 🙂
Elizabeth Bradford says
This is amazing. You are amazing 🙂 Enjoy your new coat – I bought the Robson coat pattern years ago but sizing up seemed like such a big job but this has re-inspired me. Thank you for sharing!
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Elizabeth! Sizing it up is a pain. It would be nice to have a similar pattern in an expanded size range.
birdredbird says
They both look soooo amazing!!!!
tanyamaile says
Thank you! 🙂
Megan @ The Green Violet says
Wow!! What an amazing project, i’m sure this makes you so happy every time you put it on! I’m impressed with your perseverance, I NEVER would have had the patience to grade up all of those piece. I keep putting off sewing the Minarou, which would be so practical for my lifestyle, in hopes that Tasia will grade up her older patterns if I keep dropping hints ;). Congrats on finishing this huge project!
tanyamaile says
I really hope that Tasia will expand the sizes for her older patterns. The Minaru would be such a nice raincoat. Grading up these patterns with so many pieces is certainly tedious!
Jenny R says
UUUHHHMMMAAAZZZZIINGGGGG!
OMG
I AM ON THE FLOOR
I LOVE THIS SO MUCH.
The colour! The fit! The contrast with your princess hair! It is all totally scrumdiddliumptious.
Not to mention the fact that the Appleton looks awesome too 😀
tanyamaile says
I think you need a silk coat, too. 🙂 It certainly was a satisfying sew. Truly worth the wait!
Mother of Reinvention says
I think that you coat was really worth waiting for. Everything about it is perfect. Hope moving went well. Xx
tanyamaile says
Thank you! I hope to wear it for years to come. Moving went well, although there is still some unpacking/packing/relocating!
Sheseams says
You did a lovely job on your coat!!!
tanyamaile says
Thank you!! I’m really happy with how it turned out!
Marike Smit says
Very stylish!
tanyamaile says
Thanks, Marike!!! 🙂
Barbara Carlon says
Spectacular coat and dress! What an accomplishment.
tanyamaile says
Thank you, Barbara!
artfulaugments says
Wow, both are beautiful pieces. You look gorgeous in that color!!! You did a great job!!
Leslie
tanyamaile says
Thank you, Leslie! Truly one of my favorites and certainly an accomplishment for me!