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You are here: Home / Sew Stylish / A Fuschia Silk Faille Robson Trench Coat [+ Bird Print Appleton Dress]

A Fuschia Silk Faille Robson Trench Coat [+ Bird Print Appleton Dress]

01/12/2016

robson 1

Hello, friends!

I’m astoundingly happy to finally share my silk trench coat with you!  I started this coat a year ago and finally completed it.  No, I did not work on it for a year — it was a WIP that became a UFO (acronyms!) and then I decided that I needed to finish it so that I could finally wear it!

Sewaholic Patterns

Ever since the release of the Sewaholic Robson I have loved it.  There are so many beautiful versions of this coat and I had the pattern several months before I decided on a fabric for it.  This pattern takes A LOT of fabric (6+ yards) and has A LOT of buttons.  I already have two traditional RTW trench coats in rain ready material, so I decided that I wanted to make a luxe version of the Robson.  I figured that pink would be a great color for my coat as it would go with many dresses in my wardrobe and that silk faille would be a great fabric choice as it’s both sturdy and luxurious.  I waited patiently for a good price for my dream fabric and found it at Fabric Mart for $10/yard.  Such a steal!  The next hurdle was to find enough buttons (16!).  After not finding any buttons that I felt would work, I decided on self-covered buttons and purchased several kits from Grey’s Fabrics.  The end result was exactly what I envisioned and I couldn’t be happier!

robson collage 1

Making this coat was very tedious.  There are so many pattern pieces to contend with and I also graded it up from a 16 to about a size 24, which makes this coat a more difficult process to undertake.  I also had several things I had to undo, like sewing two wrong pieces together (and then serging them….) and having to unpick a multitude of seams.  I would suggest marking your pieces with chalk to not make such an error.  I also sewed a row of buttonholes and had to unpick them, which was a REALLY dreary job.  Fortunately, I was able to fix my mistakes with no record of them on my coat.

robson collage 2

As if grading this coat up four sizes wasn’t enough, I also fully lined it.  The Robson pattern is unlined, so this a tricky detail if you aren’t accustomed to lining coats.  I used a pink rayon polka dot fabric that I had in my stash.  It’s not quite the same shade of pink as my coat, but I think it blends well.  Plus, I had just barely enough to line it.  I did a lot of hand sewing around the facings and initially sewed the lining into the hem, which didn’t work.  When my coat was on my dressform, it hung beautifully, but when I put it on, the lining pulled on the hem of the coat.  After discussing this issue with my sewing buds on Instagram, we decided that the sleeves were pulling the lining and distorting the shape, so I took out all of my hemming stitches and made the lining hang free, with French tacks to hold it in place.

robson 2

I don’t know about you, but I just love the little details like the epaulets and sleeve tabs and I think they pair perfectly with my self-covered buttons.  Everything is top-stitched, so it adds a professional element along with keeping everything in place.  I also added one of my labels, which I sewed on to the facing piece before construction.  It’s a twill tape label that my MIL embroidered on her embroidery machine a long time ago and I occasionally use.  I cut them to size and burned the edges to stop fraying.  Someday, I’d like to have some really nice professional ones made.

robson collage 3

A little tip:  I used water soluble stabilizer on the underside of my buttonholes when sewing them.  It helped the fabric glide through and made pretty perfect buttonholes.  It also made it easier to remove my buttonhole mistakes.

robson back

In addition to re-sizing this pattern, I also adjusted the sleeves to fit.  The sleeves have two pieces, which I enlarged, but I also ended up adding a third piece to get them to fit like I wanted.  I added some small pleats to the shoulders to not only accommodate my larger sleeves, but also to add a little bit of retro femininity.

robson side

As with other Sewaholic patterns I’ve made, the instructions lead through the sewing process and make what could be an intimidating project into a manageable one.  I didn’t get confused until working with the button placement.  The instructions and pattern pieces both show you where to place the buttons, but it didn’t truly click in my head until I studied the buttons on one of my RTW trench coats.  I do still have one extra button to add to the front as it was missing and I just recently found it. (The joys of having unfinished projects laying around when you move your sewing room!)

robson 3

This really is a satisfying make.  I stopped work on it last year when the weather turned warm and I wasn’t into sewing it.  It got put to the side until I forced myself to finish it after Christmas, along with some other incomplete projects.

robson 4

If I were to make this again, I’d probably do a small swayback adjustment and perhaps a small FBA as well.  Don’t get me wrong — I’m VERY HAPPY with the outcome of this coat and I ABSOLUTELY LOVE wearing it.  It makes me feel so beautiful and chic and puts a smile on my face.  But if I’m being critical to myself, that’s what I would do.  Of course, if one made a muslin, they might know that to begin with…

robson inside

Along with my lovely coat, I’m also happy to share my newest Cashmerette Appleton wrap dress.  I wear this dress once a week and it’s a staple in my winter wardrobe. It’s made with the bird print rayon jersey from Jenny’s kits (now sold out), so you may have seen several other versions with this fabric already.  I made this Appleton in much the same way as my first non-tester Appleton dress, in that I lengthened the skirt and went up a size in the waist/hips.  I found that since I used the recommended fabric (my other Appleton is a cotton double knit) for this dress, that I don’t need to size up and to follow the size chart.  I had to take in the adjustments I made, so in the future I will just cut the fabric to my size.

bird print appleton

Another goal marked off my list!  Even if it took me almost a year to finish it! 🙂

robson 5

Note:  I received both the pattern and the fabric for my Appleton dress in return for testing the pattern in it’s initial stages.

Happy New Year!

signature

  • Coat:  Sewaholic Robson in fuschia silk faille lined with pink polka dot rayon, made by me
  • Dress:  Cashmerette Appleton in rayon jersey, made by me
  • Shoes:  Calvin Klein
  • Earrings:  Bauble Bar

 

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Filed Under: Sew Stylish

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Comments

  1. Tanya Geyer says

    February 23, 2016 at 8:15 pm

    Beautiful fit, very nice. Makes me want to start sewing just so I can have clothes that look that good on me.

  2. Carlee McTavish says

    January 30, 2016 at 10:09 am

    Another amazing outfit! That dress looks killer on you and it hurts my brain to think of how much time you must have spent on that jacket.

  3. Laura Poehlman says

    January 29, 2016 at 11:30 pm

    You are so gorgeous lady. I marvel!

  4. Alicia @ Pandora Sews says

    January 17, 2016 at 7:55 pm

    This coat looks amazing on you! Such an awesome sew!!!

    • tanyamaile says

      January 18, 2016 at 10:38 am

      Thanks, Alicia! 🙂

  5. Gillian says

    January 16, 2016 at 7:06 am

    This is really beautiful! I hope you wear it for years and years to come!

    • tanyamaile says

      January 18, 2016 at 10:39 am

      I definitely will!!!!

  6. Valerie Zebra says

    January 14, 2016 at 2:08 pm

    Great work on the coat and the dress is beautiful. You look ready for the red carpet.

    • tanyamaile says

      January 18, 2016 at 10:39 am

      Thank you, Valerie! Plus, it’s such a comfy outfit, too!

  7. Sandra says

    January 14, 2016 at 9:47 am

    The color of the coat is beautiful and goes so well with your coloring! very impressed with your sewing skills! Great job, love the entire outfit!!!

    • tanyamaile says

      January 18, 2016 at 10:40 am

      Thank you, Sandra!

  8. Toni Salvia-Toth says

    January 14, 2016 at 9:03 am

    So freakin pretty! awesome job!

    • tanyamaile says

      January 18, 2016 at 10:40 am

      Thanks, Toni! I’m extremely happy with the outcome!

  9. Carol Spooner says

    January 14, 2016 at 8:04 am

    So beautiful on you! What a terrific job you did! What brand of dissolving stabilizer did you use? I just wrecked a shirt with so-called dissolving stabilizer behind the button holes that did NOT dissolve.

    • tanyamaile says

      January 18, 2016 at 10:41 am

      Thanks! I used Sulky Super Solvy. It’s been working well for me, although I don’t use it for every project.

  10. Jacqueline says

    January 14, 2016 at 2:00 am

    Wow – that is one beautiful coat! You look so fabulous in it. 😍

    • tanyamaile says

      January 18, 2016 at 10:42 am

      Thanks so much, Jacqueline!

  11. jmdiettrich says

    January 13, 2016 at 7:06 pm

    That coat is just phenomenal – I love the bold color and you look beautiful in it!

    • tanyamaile says

      January 18, 2016 at 10:42 am

      Thank you! I am in so in love with this color!

  12. Sew Quilty says

    January 13, 2016 at 5:14 pm

    Beautiful! And such and amazing job grading it up!

    • tanyamaile says

      January 18, 2016 at 10:42 am

      Thank you! It certainly wasn’t a fun job, but well worth the effort.

  13. Sew Exhausted says

    January 13, 2016 at 9:54 am

    So glad you finished the coat Tanya! It is well worth it. The coat is beautiful and so are you wearing it. You definitely look stylish and chic! Well done!

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:30 am

      Thank you! It certainly feels like an accomplishment to finish it! I think I will get many years of wear out of it.

  14. Abbey Dabbles says

    January 13, 2016 at 8:25 am

    Tanya, your pattern grading skills are beyond impressive! Plus, this fuchsia coat is HOTNESS!

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:30 am

      Thanks, Abbey!! It feels awesome to have made this and be able to finally wear it!

  15. Mary Danielson says

    January 13, 2016 at 8:11 am

    Absolutely stunning, Tanya! This pink is sensational on you and that fabric is so, so chic. I’m a little in awe, all around, actually. You did such a gorgeous job! it looks like a really expensive designer coat!

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:31 am

      Thank you, Mary! Plus it goes with so many things! I think you need a silk coat, too. 🙂

  16. Roary says

    January 13, 2016 at 7:08 am

    The whole look is just beautiful. And that coat is just gorgeous. What a great job you did. Thanks for sharing this.

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:33 am

      Thanks, Roary! I do love black and pink together! I feel quite accomplished to have made this. 🙂

  17. leighann says

    January 13, 2016 at 6:24 am

    Wow! Very pretty indeed. I love the dress, too.

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:33 am

      Thank you, Leigh Ann! 🙂 I love the two of them together.

  18. Andie W. says

    January 13, 2016 at 6:17 am

    Tanya, your coat is absolutely gorgeous! And I love the Appleton dress. It’s such a great outfit together, too. I just love it.

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:35 am

      Thanks, Andie!! I’d love to wear this everyday! I probably need some type of light starch though as the silk faille likes to wrinkle a bit.

  19. Natasha Friegang says

    January 13, 2016 at 5:52 am

    WOW! The coat is AMAZING! I love that color on you. I’m really impressed by your sewing talent. And, of course, I also love the Appleton dress. Everyone I’ve seen made so far has been fabulous. They both look great on you. I completely understand how the summer here makes us not want to sew winter clothes (or quilts!). Just too hot.

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:36 am

      Thanks, Natasha! At least we’re having cold weather this year! I need to get on with my winter sewing before it’s over!

  20. Katrine LJ says

    January 13, 2016 at 1:53 am

    It’s so lovely I am swooning, the colour and fit – impeccable!

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:36 am

      Thank you, Katrine! it really was worth the wait, although it’s my own fault that it took me a year to complete.

  21. Sandra Julian says

    January 12, 2016 at 11:39 pm

    Your Robson is beautiful. It fits so nice, I had to do a muslin and fiddle with the fit to get mind just right. The fabric and the colour make it so lux – great choices 🙂 Enjoy.

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:39 am

      Thanks, Sandra! Yours definitely inspired me to finish mine. Just think of all the possibilities to make this coat. Although — who would have the time or the need to have a closet full in different colors/prints and fabric? LOL! 🙂

  22. Meg McCarthy says

    January 12, 2016 at 9:27 pm

    This coat gives me serious heart eyes and envy- so beautiful!!

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:39 am

      Thanks, Meg! I think hot pink can be a neutral, eh? LOL 🙂

  23. ROBIN RUSH says

    January 12, 2016 at 8:56 pm

    Beautiful Coat and dress. I like that Appleton with the long sleeves. Very classy, feminine look.

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:40 am

      Thank you, Robin! I love the two together and am very much into long sleeves at the moment. 🙂

  24. Elizabeth Bradford says

    January 12, 2016 at 6:40 pm

    This is amazing. You are amazing 🙂 Enjoy your new coat – I bought the Robson coat pattern years ago but sizing up seemed like such a big job but this has re-inspired me. Thank you for sharing!

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:42 am

      Thanks, Elizabeth! Sizing it up is a pain. It would be nice to have a similar pattern in an expanded size range.

  25. birdredbird says

    January 12, 2016 at 6:20 pm

    They both look soooo amazing!!!!

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:42 am

      Thank you! 🙂

  26. Megan @ The Green Violet says

    January 12, 2016 at 3:27 pm

    Wow!! What an amazing project, i’m sure this makes you so happy every time you put it on! I’m impressed with your perseverance, I NEVER would have had the patience to grade up all of those piece. I keep putting off sewing the Minarou, which would be so practical for my lifestyle, in hopes that Tasia will grade up her older patterns if I keep dropping hints ;). Congrats on finishing this huge project!

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:45 am

      I really hope that Tasia will expand the sizes for her older patterns. The Minaru would be such a nice raincoat. Grading up these patterns with so many pieces is certainly tedious!

  27. Jenny R says

    January 12, 2016 at 3:07 pm

    UUUHHHMMMAAAZZZZIINGGGGG!

    OMG
    I AM ON THE FLOOR
    I LOVE THIS SO MUCH.

    The colour! The fit! The contrast with your princess hair! It is all totally scrumdiddliumptious.

    Not to mention the fact that the Appleton looks awesome too 😀

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:46 am

      I think you need a silk coat, too. 🙂 It certainly was a satisfying sew. Truly worth the wait!

  28. Mother of Reinvention says

    January 12, 2016 at 1:50 pm

    I think that you coat was really worth waiting for. Everything about it is perfect. Hope moving went well. Xx

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:47 am

      Thank you! I hope to wear it for years to come. Moving went well, although there is still some unpacking/packing/relocating!

  29. Sheseams says

    January 12, 2016 at 12:59 pm

    You did a lovely job on your coat!!!

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:48 am

      Thank you!! I’m really happy with how it turned out!

  30. Marike Smit says

    January 12, 2016 at 12:56 pm

    Very stylish!

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 10:48 am

      Thanks, Marike!!! 🙂

  31. Barbara Carlon says

    January 12, 2016 at 12:34 pm

    Spectacular coat and dress! What an accomplishment.

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 11:50 am

      Thank you, Barbara!

  32. artfulaugments says

    January 12, 2016 at 12:03 pm

    Wow, both are beautiful pieces. You look gorgeous in that color!!! You did a great job!!

    Leslie

    • tanyamaile says

      January 13, 2016 at 12:03 pm

      Thank you, Leslie! Truly one of my favorites and certainly an accomplishment for me!

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