Hi there friends!
I’m going to start off this post with pointing out that I didn’t use the right fabric for this dress pattern, so it has some issues. The issues don’t stop me from wearing it though! This pattern needs a fabric with more weight than this lightweight cotton shirting that I used for this dress. I was aware of that and didn’t care because I wanted to use this fabric and I’m a Taurus. 🙂
This pattern is the Decades of Style 1940’s New England Dress. This is my third version of this pattern. The other two are in a midweight cotton and wool crepe. If you look at those two previous versions, you’ll see how they don’t have the wrinkly issues that this dress has. It’s a good example of how the weight of fabric is important. All three of these dresses are the same size and made by the same person, so it’s easy to see the difference.
I could have underlined this fabric to help with the wrinkly issues, but no….. I didn’t. Instead I just made it and ended up having to line the skirt as it was way too sheer and showed the skirt pockets too much. Something that a slip wouldn’t help. (Also, I’m wearing a slip in these photos)
This fabric is a beautiful navy and red polkadot lightweight cotton shirting that I bought at Britex Fabrics in San Francisco a few years ago. It’s been languishing in my stash for so long that I don’t even remember what pattern I had in mind for it other than a “1940’s dress”. I didn’t even remember it being so lightweight until I pulled it out and started cutting.
Why does this pattern require a sturdier fabric? This dress has details that need more structure like the pockets on the skirt and the faux bib on the bodice, as well as all of the top-stitching and buttons. It makes it look a little messy without that structure, even though I had just pressed this dress before I took photos in it.
I used covered buttons and made a self-fabric belt with a vintage 1930’s/40’s Bakelite buckle. I didn’t have any buttons that matched that buckle, which was the reason why I went with the covered buttons, but I prefer this look as the buckle stands out.
I really love the sleeves on this pattern, so much so that I think the sleeves and the cuffs are my favorite part of this dress.
Regardless of the problems I have with this dress from choosing the wrong fabric, I still love it and have been wearing it. In fact, I’ll probably wear this outfit again this weekend.
I also have to share my Royal Vintage Evelyn 1930’s oxfords! I am so in love with them. I was on the fence about ordering from Royal Vintage/American Duchess as I wear a size 10.5 C and the shoes only come in B width. However, I took a chance and ordered a pair in an 11 and was happy to say that I have no issues whatsoever. They fit well, are comfortable with arch support and are well made. I love them so much that I also did a pre-order on a the Hepburn 1940’s Golf Shoes and I can’t wait to get those! If you haven’t noticed, I love shoes, but most of my shoes are sandals. I’ve been yearning for some retro oxford style shoes as I get more into everyday vintage dress. These Evelyns fit the bill and although they’re very comfortable and I wear them all day, I wouldn’t exactly call them walking shoes as I couldn’t walk miles and miles in them. I’ve heard that the Claire Oxford (which I’ve seen photos of my great grandmas wearing those exact shoes) are shoes you can walk miles in and the Hepburn’s have the same heel and fit, so I’m hoping that those will be walking shoes and I am excitedly waiting for them. Sorry for the long shoe rant, but I love shoes and tend to only purchase shoes that are comfortable, which is why I’m a huge fan of my Aerosoles and now Royal Vintage. 🙂
Happy Sewing!
- Dress: Decades of Style 1940’s New England Dress in lightweight cotton shirting, made by me
- Shoes: Royal Vintage Evelyn 1930’s Oxfords (affiliate link)
- Lipstick: Besame 1931 Carmine (affiliate link)
heartsease57 says
This pattern would be perfect for the old style gabardine. Can you still get that? The kind they used to make men’s shirts from. I remember it from my thrift store days, felt wonderful in your hands.
Tanya says
It would be wonderful in a wool gabardine! You can still get it. It’s usually under the suitings section.
hopflower says
It was great that you included a comparison for the different fabric weights-and made into the same dress! So helpful. I love all your dresses, and the new one looks great on you besides. I would probably choose a fabric and make it up anyway too (and I am a Libra), but I see your point about keeping it a bit heavier as the dress does hang very nicely. I am sure wearing the slip helps the lighter version. Love the shoes as well and glad you included a link about them.
Tanya says
Thank you! It is important to think about fabric weight and pay attention to fabric suggestions for a pattern. Case in point! 🙂
Robin D Rush says
Isn’t it something–shoe fanatics unite! I took one look at your shoes and said ‘wow, love those shoes–wonder where she got them…’ lol. I love the style of the dress, yes I agree, fabric choice is everything. My favorite is the wool crepe. You do such a great job with vintage sewing and I love reading your posts.
Tanya says
Thanks, Robin! Yeah, I always look at the shoes, too! 🙂
thedementedfairy says
Very nice- blue really is your colour!
Tanya says
Thank you! I definitely saw that when I looked at these photos!
christine says
Lovely. Thanks for showing the other versions in different fabric weight as well. You are so talented. The shoes are wonderful too. I never knew there was a company for vintage shoes. So cute. I might have to order a pair or two.
Tanya says
Thanks, Christine! Yes, I really love seeing how a pattern looks in different weight fabrics as well. There are a few vintage/retro shoe companies. Besides Royal Vintage, there’s Re-Mix Vintage, BAIT, Miss L Fire, and Rocket Originals.
Nita says
Such a fabulous pattern – so nice to see the fabric comparison, too. I love the blue & red dotted fabric, can see why you were determined to sew it up. Wouldnt it also look great in a fine wale corderoy.
Tanya says
Thank you, Nita! I do agree that this dress would be wonderful in corduroy!
confectionaryairs says
Beautiful (although I like the blue one best!)
Tanya says
Thanks! That’s my favorite as well. 🙂