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The Jenny Lee Dress [Simplicity 1459]

Hello, friends!

 

striped shirtwaist 1

I’m happy to share this retro shirtwaist dress with you!  This dress is inspired by this lovely striped shirt dress worn by Jenny Lee in Call the Midwife.  I couldn’t find any photos online, so these are screen captures from season 3.

jenny lee collage

I used Simplicity 1459 to make my dress, along with a navy/white striped stretch cotton sateen from Fabric Mart.  I previously used this pattern to make my last shirtwaist.

[source: Pattern Review]

striped shirtwaist collage

I went old school with this and finished the facings and seams with pinking shears and covered the buttons.  I had planned on covering the buckle as well, but I didn’t have one the right size.  The covered buttons are actually vintage 1950’s ones from my grandma’s stash.  It would have been cool to use one of her vintage buckle sets, too, but I didn’t want to a belt that narrow.

dressform inside collage

I also made another cardigan!  Instead of a pink one like Jenny Lee’s, I made a dark red one reminiscent of the ubiquitous cardis that the midwifes wear.

[source: Express]

Mine is made from a dark red merino wool jersey that I snagged from Fabric Mart.  I used my staple cardi pattern — Simplicity 2154.  When I make this cardigan, I shorten it as it’s pretty long, otherwise, I pretty much follow the pattern instructions.

red cardigan

I finished the button placket with a polkadot grosgrain ribbon.  The pattern calls for ribbon, and in the past I’ve used satin ribbon.  The grosgrain works far better!  I forgot to pick up ribbon at the store when I was buying bias tape (for the neckline) and buttons, so this is one I had in my stash.

red cardigan collage

I do have all of the stripes lined up on the bodice, but they move around with the big buttons.  I also had sewn the buttons so that the stripes were lined up, but the move around…. oh well — at least the line up on the side seams!  I’ve been thinking about adding a couple of snaps to make the placket a little more stable, but it doesn’t really bother me that much.

striped shirtwaist 2.1

striped shirtwaist back

I think there’s some dog hair stuck on the back on my skirt….

This sateen is a bit stiff and heavy, so its perfect for a full skirt.  I do have my cotton petticoat on underneath, which makes it a little fuller.

striped shirtwaist 2

The pattern calls for a ribbon belt, which I made for the last version of this dress, but I like self fabric belts better.  This one is interfaced with a lightweight fusible interfacing.  The fabric is a little thick and heavy, so it didn’t need much (if anything) to stabilize it.  Other times I’ve used heavier sew-in interfacing, horsehair canvas or belting.

striped shirtwaist 3

Doc was hanging out here looking picture perfect, so here’s a few photos with him. 🙂

striped shirtwaist 4

Also, it’s not really warm here as my attire might lead you to believe…. It was about 50 when I was taking these.

striped shirtwaist 5

I’m also pleased to say that I’ve finally had time to follow through with a sewing challenge!  Although this dress has been in the planning stages for a few months, I made it just in time to include it as part of Mary’s Autumn of 1000 Shirt Dresses!  Yay!

Happy Sewing!

  • Dress:  Simplicity 1459 in navy/white stripe stretch cotton sateen, made by me
  • Cardigan:  Simplicity 2154 in dark red merino wool jersey, made by me
  • Shoes:  LK Bennett
  • Jewelry:  Bauble Bar

Comments

  1. Thank you soo much for posting this. I can’t tell you how long I’ve been fussing over the facings trying to figure out how to pin them (actually I can – 1 whole week). I finally found your blog after looking for help before I gave up an bought a Halloween costume and tossed this whole venture. I love that Call the Midwife inspired this dress since I just finished the series yesterday! I and my Tiana costume thank you profusely, you wonderful woman!

  2. Ohhh goodness this is gorgeous! Makes me want to go and finally get that pattern out (but first I have to unpack my entire sewing room!) I also love the cardigan, and how handy that you happened to have the exact right colour ribbon in your stash

  3. Great dress. The fabric works so well. Great shoe choice.
    Call the midwife is a great show. I’ve always wanted to make a top with a ‘shoulder pocket’ like their uniforms have. I’ll have to draft it one day 🙂

  5. I love Call the Midwife and Jenny Lee is so stylish and gorgeous. Your dress and cardie are perfect! Doc loves being a model too- or just loves being near his mommy. Love his smiley face! xxx

  6. I get so caught up in the envelope art sometimes, I just couldn’t picture how that would scale up to me-sized. I was picturing a collar I could use to hang-glide! Another reason I love your blog, Tanya!

    • Thank you, Marianne! What I like most about this pattern is how the waist hits me perfectly and it doesn’t give that “pregnant” look like other full skirts can if they’re up too high.

    • Thanks, Erin! 🙂 Yes, you should watch it! I lingered in my queue for a while before I watched it and then of course it was a lot of binge watching (and crying) after that.

  9. My sister’s dog is named Doc! Well, Doctor, actually, but we call her Doc. Anyway, I LOVE this dress and your inspiration only makes me adore it more! You found a great pattern for the recreate!

    • Thanks, Michelle! 🙂 I’m always in awe of the costume design on Call the Midwife. It’s also interesting that most all of the garments are actual vintage ones! (Yes, I have a book that tells the backstory…) Doc’s full name is actually “Doc Holliday.” So, I guess he is “Doctor” as well, if also a “Dentist”…. haha

    • Thanks, Rox!!! It is reminiscent of that, isn’t it? I love the belt that she’s wearing, too! The collar seems similar to the Colette Hawthorn, but the rest of it is much like this one.

  12. I said this on Instagram, but this is just beautiful and warranted a second exclamation!! It just looks so amazing on you. I loved the other version a lot, but this version is just so perfect for you. I feel like the skirt is fuller here because of the stripe directions. It’s just so gorgeous on you! <3

    • Thanks, Kat! 🙂 The wide lapels are the best, aren’t they? I also think that pinking on the facings helps it lie down better and not show on the outside, although I usually just serge them.

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Mrs. Hughes: A retro inspired, vintage garment sewing and plus-size dressmaking blog by Tanya Maile Hughes.