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Sailors are My Weakness [The Dorothy Lara Dress]

Hello friends!

 

Here’s a bit of a special treat today as I finally get to share this

dress that I’ve been lusting after [in my head] for a couple of months now!

 sailors

This is the 1940’s Dorothy Lara Dress pattern by Decades of Style.

[source: Decades of Style Patterns]

It’s a 1940’s style raglan sleeved dress with gathers on the neckline and waistline that are like faux smocking.  It’s a sweet, simple dress that’s a wonderful canvas for a print. I’ve admired Decades of Style patterns for quite a while and I was sorry to say that this was the first one that I purchased as I should have bought it a long time ago!  And as this pattern company is relatively local to me (based in Berkeley), I don’t know what stopped me from buying all the designs I’ve been craving.   My fabric speaks vintage to me and ever since I saw it I thought that it would look fantastic paired with a simple 1940’s dress pattern.

fabric detail

My fabric is this luxurious and truly awesome silk “Sailors are My Weakness” fabric from Smuggler’s Daughter.  Susan contacted me a couple of months ago and asked if I would like to sew with some of her fabric and review it.  I jumped at this opportunity as she carries some beautiful fine fabrics in her online store.  I was able to choose any fabric from her store and came across this unique silk print.  I have never seen a print like this and I was even more amazed by it when it arrived in my mailbox. The print is like American Traditional style tattoo work with a gorgeous vintage lady, flowers and yes, snakes (or perhaps a sea monster).  I don’t like reptiles, but this print just speaks to me and I love everything about it.  This is honestly the most insanely beautiful fabric that I’ve ever sewn with.  I’ve been gazing at it ever since I opened it’s lovingly packaged carton and this may have resulted in my favorite dress yet.

dressform collage

This pattern goes together well and the instructions are easy to comprehend.  The faux smocking — which are gathers that are topstitched — is a bit tenuous and I was a little worried that my silk would not handle the rows and rows of stitching, but it did and splendidly.  The results are a very vintage effect that adds volume at the bust and results in a comfortable and flattering retro dress.

inside collage

I made this dress a little more laborious on myself with linings, bindings and hand sewing.  The bodice is underlined and the skirt is lined with bemberg lining.  The seams are finished with rayon bias tape and all of the hems are hand-sewn.  This took quite a bit more time to do, but it resulted in a nicely finished dress that keeps it’s retro feel inside and out and as my hems are stitched by hand, the thread disappears and allows the focus to be on this gorgeous fabric.

sailors 2

The Dorothy Lara dress pattern comes in 9 sizes up to a 46″ bust.  I graded the pattern up one size to a 48″ bust and two sizes for my waist/hips.  The only other alteration I did was to add an inch to the skirt length and to sew a narrow hem.  After making this dress in silk, I can’t wait to cut into some voile and make another!

sailors back

I had originally planned to add a self fabric belt to this dress with a vintage 1940’s bakelite buckle set that I found on etsy.  But after I finished sewing my dress I decided that a belt and any other adornments would be a bit too much as the fabric is busy and a belt would either disappear amidst the print or detract from it.  So I guess I’ll save that for another retro dress!

sailors 3

When I received my dress pattern, Janet had added a note about adding cap sleeve shoulder pads for more structure and a more accurate 1940’s look.  I actually did make some shoulder pads and I liked how they defined the shoulders and shaped the sleeves. However, I like how this dress resembles a kimono with the silk fabric and sleeves and decided to leave it without the pads.

dress collage

I am so happy how this turned out!  It’s always great when an idea that you have envisioned in your head comes to fruition exactly as you wanted it to be.  I had a few times where I was apprehensive as I thought to myself of how I probably should make a muslin first as I was working with exquisite fabric and a new [to me] pattern company.  But judging from the pattern pieces and the loose silhouette of the dress I knew it would fit and that I wouldn’t have any problems.

sailors 4

I’m actually going to be wearing this dress on a Valentine’s getaway with my husband, so essentially this is my Valentine’s dress. <3  We’ll be on the coast, so the sailor theme is quite apropos.  If I was closer to the water or had enough forethought I would have taken photos on the wharf or by the harbor in this dress.  Instead, here I am in the pasture…. but I did do a 1940’s makeover on myself with vintage 40’s hair and makeup!

sailors 5 hand tint

I really can’t tell you more about how happy I am with the outcome of this dress! I truly and deeply love it as much as one could love an inanimate object.  It feels so glamorous and special to be wearing it.  I think it’s a marvelous marriage between pattern and fabric and I really am pleased.

 

Note:  I received this fabric from The Smuggler’s Daughter in exchange for a review.  These are my honest opinions.

Happy Sewing!

signature

  • Dress:  Decades of Style 1940’s Dorothy Lara dress in sailor print silk, made by me
  • Shoes:  Swedish Hasbeens Floral T-Strap
  • Earrings:  Bauble Bar
  • Parasol:  Vintage 1920’s

Comments

  3. It looks beautiful. You did a great job in the fabric selection and the construction. (I found this post from the Decades of Style site. I was curious about how this dress went together, as I’m an advanced beginner sewer, if that’s even a thing.)

  6. I LOVE this. That fabric is just luscious. And now I have some coming my way. Though I did blow my budget as I live in Australia and our $$ our not very good at the moment. I know it will be worth it. Now to think of a project as it makes it way to me.

  7. It is a really beautiful dress on you Tanya! The fabric, your styling of the dress and the design all come together really well.
    You’re so clever at this!

  9. I was not behind the snakes, but a sea serpent is just fine! The dress is absolutely beautiful on you, and the design really works too. Wonderful work!

  10. WOW! You look stunning. What a fabulous marriage of fabric and pattern and immaculate construction. Enjoy your Valentine Day outing 🙂

  12. outstanding! the fabric is such a wonderful choice. dress is such a lovely shape too. L-O-V-E how you styled it.

    -d

  14. Oh my glob Tanya, you look stunning. The dress is beautiful and you (hair, makeup, everything) look great – and I love the photos in the pasture. I don’t even know what to say (I’ve been saying that a lot recently – you girls and your amazing garments).

    Have an amazing Valentines trip!

  15. So. Gorgeous. The pattern, the fabric, hair and makeup. Your husband is one lucky valentine’s day date! 🙂

  17. Mmmmm. I love anything in silk! The print on the fabric definitely nods to the work of Norman Keith Collins (Sailor Jerry).

      • You’re absolutely right. Plus although I have a similar pattern to this that I love (V87270) I love the ease this has minus a front midriff yoke. This will sew up so nicely in voile or lawn. (And knowing me, just plain ol’ cotton poplin).

  21. Love the dress and the print is so vintage–perfect hook up. It fits you well. Thanks for sewing details.

  22. This dress is really pretty. The colors in the fabric are gorgeous and it looks so good on you! I really admire your skill.

  24. Normally I love your dresses but this one it truly outstanding – such beautiful fabric. You look incredible as always – love these colours on you & your hair & make up are the perfect match. Just gorgeous.

  25. Oh Tanya! This is definitely my favourite garment of yours! I adore the fabric and the style of pattern is perfect for you. 🙂 You look gorgeous in your 40s makeover, too. 🙂

    • Thanks, Andie! I’m so happy how this turned out! It sure is fun to play a little dress up for photos, isn’t it? I won’t be doing the 40’s makeover when I wear this IRL though, but definitely going to keep the shoes. 🙂

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Mrs. Hughes: A retro inspired, vintage garment sewing and plus-size dressmaking blog by Tanya Maile Hughes.