Hi, friends!
Oh, heavens! It’s a new dress! Why, how unusual? Not really, no. But I’m a dresses gal, so another one in my closet makes me happy. 🙂
This, my friends is the By Hand London Kim dress. I’ve admired this pattern since I saw Mary’s watercolor version. A few months ago I was the featured member on Pattern Review and was offered a discount on patterns. I decided that was a great time to pick up this little beauty in the never-ending search for my perfect summer dress. While I like the version with the tulip skirt, I was immediately enamored with the gathered skirt version. I love the princess seams and the straps that are part of the bodice rather than additions. And a gathered skirt? I was sold.
{source}
While I’ve admired most of the By Hand London patterns, they’ve never really been my style. But when Kim rode in with her pintucks and sweetheart neckline, how could I resist such a sweet dress. Having never sewn with a BHL pattern, I decided to make a (hopefully) wearable muslin first. This is something I rarely do as I generally make my alterations to the garments I’m working on and baste things together to check the fit. As I had been planning to use an expensive fabric for this pattern, I decided to test it out first with this black and white cotton gingham from Joann’s.
I graded this up a size to an 18 (US) and noticed that there was quite a lot of gaping going on around the armscyces and upper bust after I basted it together. I’m not certain if this had to do with grading it up myself or an error with upper pattern sizes. I added side darts and adjusted the princess seams in order to eliminate said gaping. However, I do think this is a bodice that most likely requires an FBA. Having never done an FBA myself, I never thought too much of it as I’m at the lower end of the full bust spectrum at a D, but this sure looks like that type of situation. I penciled in my new bust darts on my pattern piece and added notes for the future. I also did my usual swayback adjustment.
This “muslin” (well…. now it’s just a dress as I wear it!) is lined with red cotton batiste on the bodice. I didn’t think the skirt needed lining, so I didn’t bother with it. My bodice lining is a remnant from another dress, so I was happy to use that up. I added red piping to the neckline and armscyes, which was a detail I had envisioned when I pictured a gingham version of this dress. I originally hadn’t planned on adding the pintucks on the skirt as I figured they would be lost in the print, but some friends on Instagram suggested the piping with the pintucks, and as I had three packages of piping, I followed suit. I started sewing the pintuck piping on with a single straight stitch and decided it needed something a little more to hold it on and opted for a simple zig zag stitch. I guess I could have used one of my decorative stitches, but really didn’t see the point as I assumed they would be obscured. I decided that one pintuck was enough.
I did some pattern matching, but not a whole lot. The bodice lines up at the front and back, but not on the sides and the skirt back is a hair off. None of this bothers me and I’m happy with how this dress turned out.
So, what is my verdict on this pattern? Will I make it again? And is it my perfect summer dress? Well, as with dresses like this that have to be fitted well on the bodice, it’s not quite as breathable in 100 degree weather as something with a looser fit would be. So, no, not my perfect summer dress. I do like it quite a bit and will no doubt make another. I love the retro feel and the swooshy skirt. I’d probably make a couple more tiny adjustments to the bodice when I make it again. I doubt I will do an FBA as that just sounds like a huge mystery to me. I don’t mind having the darts with the princess seams.
I recently purchased the new Burda sundress pattern (Sundress with pockets 5/2015 #132), so maybe that will be my perfect summer dress? I had been looking at the Southport when I saw this one and snatched it up. I’d probably not put the pockets on, but I love everything else about it. It looks cool and comfortable and bra friendly. The Kim is bra friendly, but it takes one with a wider strap like a balconette. Just the things I’m thinking of during my perfect summer dress search. (BTW, I’ve been looking for my perfect summer dress for about 4 years now…)
Will I use the precious fabric I originally put aside for this dress? Not to make the Kim. I’m not swept away by this pattern enough to use it for that. Back to the drawing….er…. sewing table for that!
Happy Sewing!
- Dress: By Hand London Kim dress in black/white cotton gingham, made by me
- Shoes: Swedish Hasbeen Heart sandals
- Earrings and Brooch: Luxulite
I did exactly the same – made a muslin in black and white gingham but wear it now as an actual dress. I love the red you added to yours. Mine can be found at http://www.blogspot.com/fairyelephants
Holly
That is a super cute dress. I am loving all of your red trim and your cute red accessories right down to the shoes!
Oh, and I am IN LOVE with your shoes!! Are they Hasbeens (sp?)??
It is certainly gorgeous on you!
Oh I love that! But then, I am a sucker for gingham… I see what you mean about not being the perfect dress, though. It gets HOT here and I wouldn’t want something that fitted on in summer. But I’m excited to follow your perfect summer dress quest!
Gah, Tanya, you look stunning. I think I say this a lot to you, but you just look.. radiant. The blue and red are the perfect colours for your complexion. And I’m so jealous of the shoes/earrings!
I love this! The red is so perfect, you just need a barbecue to go to.
I feel like such a copy cat sometimes, but I may have to pick up that Burda dress. Do you remember that Burda dress you made last year with the 70s feel? I’m working on the tunic with elbow length sleeves. Turns out both pattern and enough fabric have been in my stash for a year. I’m so excited that the adjustments I have to make do not include grading!
http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/clean-cut-dress-plus-size-012013
Thanks! You should do it! I love the black/white/red combo!
Excellent use of piping!
Thanks, Lauren!
Though it isn’t your perfect Summer dress, I still like it. The black and white gingham trimmed with red is a great classic look and those colors look fabulous on you!
Thanks, Alicia! I had been wanting a dress with these colors and glad I finally made one. 🙂
Ah, well, the search continues. This does look darling on you. It’s too bad that you had to do so much to fuss with the bodice fit. I had a similar bodice issue with the Flora dress except I’m not busty. At ALL, and well… I jumped ship. It wasn’t worth the energy to work it out.
After your post about the Flora, I never intended to make a BHL pattern and wouldn’t have if not for the release of this pattern. It sure doesn’t make me want to sew another one!
Okay, much like all your makes, seeing you in this is the first time I’d consider making a BHL pattern for myself. Seeing it in gingham gave me all sorts of plaid inspiration and I have some precious coral madras plaid in my stash that might be beautiful! I do like the house dress elements of that sundress with pockets (and I like the utility of those pockets too, but I’m telling you, BURDA 7054 will be your dream summer dress. The straps are separate to the bodice, but my Marvel dress never exposes my bra straps ever, nor does the Bacon Day dress I made my sister. Maybe I have to mail you one in repayment for all the inspiration you give me.
That Burda pattern has been on my list. Just waiting for it to go on sale! 🙂
In the vein of perfect summer dress did you see Rochelle’s new make at Lucky Lucille? That Vogue pattern looks right in your(our)vein!
Oh, and the flowers look amazing! What a difference a few thousand feet in elevation make, my hollyhocks are about a foot tall and probably won’t bloom til august.
These usually don’t bloom for another month or so. There weather is crazy here…
This turned out super adorable, but I totally get what you are saying about it not being your perfect summer dress. I can’t STAND a fitted bodice in the summer, and I definitely can’t stand sitting around the office in a fitted bodice, so while they always looks so cute on others, I never end up making fitted dresses like this. This pattern is pretty cute, but I didn’t even give it a second glance, especially after the fitting required for the only BHL pattern I have, the Anna. After making my first southport, I’m pretty sure there are going to be more of those in my life this summer. I’m going to check out that burda link too. And, I still need to make up the derby dress that you sent me, I’m finally motivated now that its (kind of) warming up. Actually, there was snow on the mountains this morning, so maybe I’m getting ahead of myself. I look forward to seeing how the quest for the perfect summer dress goes this summer!
Yeah, when it’s hot, a fitted bodice just makes it worse! Yeah, I don’t think I’d buy another BHL pattern…. The Southport does look like a super option for a summer dress. I’m glad you found a great pattern! The Derby dress is certainly a comfy choice! 🙂
This is so cute, Tanya! Love it!
Thank you, Abbey! 🙂
Oh, I *LOVE* this dress, might even be my favorite Kim yet! The red piping is great. I always think piping is a feature that can add so much to a dress, but I almost never think about doing it.
And ugh, the landscape behind you is SO SO pretty. I would love to have a little picnic right there, wearing that exact dress!
Thank you, Nicole! 🙂 I, too, love piping, but don’t use it as much as I’d like to. It’s such a nice little to add if you remember!
That’s my rock garden. I’m happy things are blooming there 🙂
I love your gingham kim dress! The red pops are so perfect. 🙂 I’ve been searching for the perfect summer dress for years, too. 😉
Thanks, Andie! I’m “glad” we’re in the same “perfect summer dress” boat! lol! 🙂
Way to wear gingham – especially with those pops of scarlet and flashes of green (nice toe colour with those shoes). All in all a totally inspiring and gorgeous make! Can’t believe it’s a muslin!
Thanks, T! I’m awfully inspired by you and your mix of colors!
This is a very pretty dress and you look great in it. The gingham makes it look fresh and retro at the same time. Piping really pops and is a lovely touch. Never fancied any of the BHL patterns as I would have had to grade them up but this looks very nice. Xx
Thank you! Although I don’t care so much about what’s “in style”, it is super cool that gingham is in fashion, isn’t it?
Oh the piping! It adds so much to this already delightfully feminine neckline. A perfect picnic frock!
Thanks, Elizabeth! It certainly is a picnic frock!
It’s a cute dress, and I really like how it looks in the gingham with the piping, but it’s not my favorite thing that you’ve made. And I know what you mean about searching for the perfect summer dress (pattern)! I love that BurdaStyle dress, BTW. I’m seriously considering making that for summer.
I’m not really into lower cut dresses, so it’s probably a pattern relegated more for dressier occasions as I could not see myself wearing it every day. In addition to that burda and the Southport I also like the new Butterick — they all have similar lines. I’d love to see you make that Burda! Maybe it will be our perfect summer dress!
I do love it, and I love the piping on the pintuck. Excellent pop of color! But I agree it doesn’t quite seem to be your style. To combat the strap issue I added lingerie guards to help my bra straps sit right under the dress straps. I did a lot of adjustments to the bodice too, and it’s still not perfect. But I’m good with that. 😀
Thanks, Sylvie! I do love yours and it looks super cute on you! Yes, not exactly an every day look for me, which is what I tend to make the most of.
Great look, and love the piping! Nice job! 🙂
Thanks, Patrica! 🙂
I like it! But I agree that it’s not my 100% favourite pattern of all time. Luckily for us there lots more patterns 😀
Yes! So many more patterns to make!!