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A Lace Chantilly

Hello, friends!  It’s been a while!

lace chantilly 1

Following an early summer adventure to New England (photos of that later), my husband and I attended a vintage chic wedding of friends at a vineyard.  I made this lace dress especially for this wedding and was happy to have an opportunity to make a dress with a lace overlay.

[source: Colette Patterns]

I used the Colette Chantilly pattern for this dress, quite apropos as the overlay  is similar to chantilly lace.  I’ve had this pattern in my stash for a while, with plans of making it with silk chiffon.  After trying to come up with a way to use this lace for a dress, I opted for this pattern, which worked rather well.  This pattern has since been discontinued, but there is a PDF version on the Colette site.

dressform collage 2

I used a cotton lace which I got in a fabric swap at the LA Sewist meetup last year.  My intention had always been to make a lace dress with it, and when I saw some beautiful dresses with contrast underlays, I knew that’s what this lace would be meant for.  I bought this fuschia cotton voile last year from Fabric Mart and deemed it perfect to go with the lace overlay.

dressform collage 1

When I had finished constructing this dress I thought perhaps that I had made a faux pas and made a “curtain” dress.  And sometimes when I look at it, it still kind of looks like lace curtains…. I made a wide sash with my voile to break up the lace and bring the color out.

lace chantilly 2

As I was working with a lace with a scalloped border and wanted to use that feature for the skirt, I was very careful lining up the edges as I cut it out.  This skirt has gores, so I spent a lot of time matching up the scallops and the lace trim.  Even though I lined up the lace, the pattern is off a little on the bodice.  I lined up the lace and had the scallops pinned together as I laid my pattern pieces out and I don’t think the lace pattern as off, so it must have been me with the pattern layout.  At least I got the skirt lined up! 🙂

lace chantilly 3

I graded this dress up to about a 20/22.  I cut the voile on the skirt the same length as the pattern, but the lace is cut a couple of inches longer, both to accommodate the scallop trim and to allow for fabric matching.  The bodice is underlined as per the pattern instructions.  As I didn’t want the seams on the underlayer showing through the lace, the skirt and waistband seams are turned to the inside.  It doesn’t make the inside as beautiful as it’s meant to be, even with the French seams on the lining, so I’d probably have two layers for the skirt the next time I make this.  The only other alteration I made was my usual swayback adjustment.

lace chantilly 4

I’ve never worn a dress with a neckline yoke like this and wasn’t sure how it would work with a regular bra, but my straps don’t show and I didn’t have to wear a strapless bra, so win-win for me!  I’ve also since washed this dress and I didn’t need to dry clean it — just cool water wash and hung on the line.

us at lindseys wedding

My husband and I

Happy Sewing!

signature

  • Dress:  Colette Chantilly in cotton scalloped lace and cotton voile, made by me
  • Shoes:  Aerosoles
  • Bracelet:  Winterthur
  • Sunglasses:  Tory Burch

Comments

  4. What a beautiful dress. I would never have thought that this dress would look so nice from the pattern illustration. I love your fabric pairing, you look great in those colours. xx

    Reply

  10. Perfect fabric for the dress and love the pink. Such a great job on the border and the skirt!

    Reply

  13. This is so cute! I love the lace overlay! I do like the sash and how it breaks up the lace. I can’t believe you matched up the scallops. I bought this pattern a while ago, and gave it to my friend because I wasn’t keen on it.I sure do regret it now!

    Reply

  16. Stunning! You did a fantastic job, Tanya. The magenta and lace really complement your complexion.

    Reply

  18. The fuchsia underlay is so amazing with that lace, and you did a beautiful job matching up the gored skirt. I don’t know why I’ve never thought of voile under lace, but it’s such a practical and wearable option! I have to say that you have the absolutely perfect figure for this design. The gathered bust is super flattering on you and doesn’t make you go crazy pin-up boobalicious. I have this pattern, and I’ve hesitated because my vintage Vogue 8728 (as much as I adore it) makes me feel a little too much like Jane Russell in The Outlaw. Which is a dumb problem to complain about. So once again, THANK YOU for opening my eyes to possibilities, and being such a gorgeous source of constant inspiration to me.

    Reply

    • This is the first time I’ve tried voile under lace. It works well with eyelet, so I figured it would also pair well with lace. It also made this dress cool to wear, which was needed as it was 100 degrees at the start of this wedding!

      I really do love this pattern and will definitely make it again! I actually have a yellow eyelet that will look great with this. I have V8728 and haven’t made it up yet. Looking like Jane Russell isn’t a bad thing! 😉

      Reply

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Mrs. Hughes: A retro inspired, vintage garment sewing and plus-size dressmaking blog by Tanya Maile Hughes.