I hope you’re all doing well! I’ve been sick for the first time in about three years, so I’ve been down for the count. Thankfully, I’m feeling better and have been getting my sewing and blogging on! I also have a fun announcement later this week that I’m excited to share with you. 🙂 For now though, I’m sharing my recent shirtdress project as I hope for warmer weather and dream of days filled with sunshine.
*Portions of this post originally appeared on the Cali Fabrics blog.
For my next Cali project I decided on Vintage Vogue 9000, a kimono sleeved reproduction shirtdress pattern from 1951. I used this delicious teal and fuschia plaid fine cotton shirting, which is the perfect fabric to make a shirtdress with. This fabric is lightweight, but not too light that it’s sheer, so I didn’t need to line or underline my dress.
As I was matching plaids, I ordered more fabric than suggested. The problem that I failed to consider when planning this project was that the plaid is a directional design (meaning that it is a one-way print) and I couldn’t cut out the flared skirt panels and match the plaids with the yardage that I had. I spent a lot of time laying out my fabric pieces every which way I could think to try and make it work, but in the end, I had to forgo the lovely skirt included with the dress pattern. Instead, I went with a gathered skirt that I cut into six rectangular panels to give the skirt an even and full effect with this retro dress. Plus, gathered skirts are so much easier to plaid match!
I love the little details of this pattern that it set it apart from other shirtdresses — like the sleeve cuffs, the large collar, and the self-fabric belt. This is a Vogue pattern, so that means more hand sewing and vintage techniques. The pattern includes shoulder pads, which I did make, but in the end I felt that this dress looks better on me without them.
I graded this pattern up to about a size 26, enlarged the sleeves and did a swayback adjustment to the back piece. There’s still some fabric back there, but I think it gives it a blouson effect. I might take out a little more the next time I make this pattern as the sample on the Vogue site doesn’t have any pooling in that area.
I really look forward to making another version of this dress with the paneled skirt in View A. I’m thinking of chambray or another crisp shirting fabric.
Disclaimer: I received the fabric for this dress at no cost as I am a Cali Fabrics contributor. These are my honest thoughts and opinions.
- Dress: Vintage Vogue 9000 in cotton shirting with gathered skirt, made by me
- Shoes: Lifestride
- Sunglasses: Modcloth
- Earrings: Bauble Bar