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The 1950’s Robin Hood Dress

Hi friends!

I’m so happy to share this dress with you!  It’s a dress that I not only love immensely, but one that means an awful lot to me as the fabric is not only vintage, but it is a treasure that I recently unearthed.  A couple of months ago, I started going through some old trunks and footlockers of my grandparents that are stored out in our barn.  In one, I found a treasure trove of mid-century fabrics, that were old curtains.  Stored in the box was not only this Robin Hood fabric, but also yards and yards of a beautiful white and purple floral print and a gorgeous set of lace curtains with a butterfly and floral motif.

All of the curtains were made by my grandma and I assumed that the fabrics were from the 1960’s, as the footlocker was stamped “Spain” and as my grandpa was stationed in Madrid in the early 60’s, I thought that the fabrics also dated to that time.  After showing the curtains to my mom, she remembered this Robin Hood print as curtains hung in their basement bar when they lived in New Jersey, which was in the mid-50’s, making it easy to date the fabrics.

The Robin Hood print is a cotton canvas made by Saison Happily Married Fabrics.  This fabric was stored at the bottom of the footlocker, and after a soak and a wash, it was just like new.  What a cool novelty print!

I unpicked hems and seams and went about figuring out which pattern to use for this fabric.  I wanted to use a vintage 1950’s pattern with this fabric, and after much deliberation as I looked through my pattern stash, I chose vintage Simplicity 4667 from 1954, which I knew would work after many careful alterations as I had used it before to make my Rose Print Dress.   And like Scarlett, I would soon have a dress made from curtains!

I chose view 1 for this version, with it’s sweetheart neckline bound with bias tape.  I had to skip the gored skirt as I didn’t have enough fabric to make it.  I also didn’t have enough fabric to cut out the full bodice, so I shortened it and cut a waistband so that I could achieve the full length of the bodice.

As this fabric was previously curtains, it was cut into panels and valances, and it was very tricksy working with it, especially with the directional print.  I would have liked a fuller skirt, but I was working with limited yardage and rare fabric that I couldn’t replace, so I made do.  I have on a slightly fuller petticoat with this dress than I generally wear, but I may make or buy a fuller and more cupcake-y one and see how it looks.

I used as many vintage notions that I could for this dress and went crazy adding bits of green all over it.  I followed the directions to add bias tape (not vintage) to the neckline and sleeves.  I used a vintage metal zipper, which I moved from the side (as instructed by the pattern) to the back and I added a hem band with rick rack and flat piping.

I made a belt to go over the waistband and used this matching vintage green buckle.  Initially, I used a darker green buckle and wore this dress the first time like that as I couldn’t find a green buckle in the right shade at the time.  I found the green buckle below at the Costume College marketplace and swapped the buckles before wearing this dress again.

The new buckle is slightly larger than the buckle that this belt was made for, but I think the belt blends enough with the busy fabric of the dress, that it’s not too noticeable.

I added the front pockets from the pattern, which I really love.  They are large and easily accommodate anything you want to put in them.  I seriously want to add them to every casual dress from now on.

In addition to the bodice alterations that I already mentioned, I enlarged the sleeves, did a swayback adjustment, and altered the bust darts.

I cut those enormous pockets with the scalloped edge, but it’s difficult to see with the busy print.  I also added some more vintage rick rack.

I love how this dress turned out!  It’s comfortable to wear and is not too hot, even though it’s made out of a mid-weight canvas.  The print and the colors just make so happy when I look at it.

I had to buy some new rick rack for the hem as I didn’t have enough of the vintage green on the pockets for the hem.  The hem band is a piece of fabric folded in half lengthwise and sewn to the skirt.  Did I really need to do that?  No.  When I first cut the skirt out, it was too long.  And then when I cut some fabric off, it was too short.  Therefore, I fixed it by adding a hem band and sewed the flat piping between them as well as sewing on the rick rack.

My first outing with this dress was to Universal Studios and the Wizarding World of Harry Potter, which I had been dying to visit.  I then wore this dress later on that evening to Medieval Times, in which it was very appropriate, but oddly, no one noticed the medieval print on my dress!

Happy Sewing!

  • Dress:  Vintage Simplicity 4667 (1954) in vintage 1950’s Saison Happily Married canvas fabric, made by me
  • Shoes:  ReMix Vintage Penny
  • Earrings:  Vintage mid-century
  • Lipstick:  Besame 1931 Carmine

Comments

  1. This dress is simply fabulous! I am beyond impressed with how well you placed the elements of the fabric design, considering that you were working with a limited amount of fabric. The castle is beautifully centered on the bodice, and the green treetops make a fascinating criss-cross pattern on the skirt. This is the kind of attention to detail we should all aspire to.

  3. The fabric is so fun and crisp looking after all the years. You look stunning in your dress, everything is just perfect and the shoes!

  4. Amazing fabric, great story & history, exquisite workmanship, perfect pattern & fabulous shoes! I’m sure you’ve inspired many sewers with this dress. I love everything you did plus it is such a happy dress; I’m smiling just taking it all in & scrolling back & forth for second & third looks. Thank you for pointing out the scalloped pockets as they are very interesting but you are right that they don’t show up to well. Perhaps a very thin green bias tape would make them more visible.

    • Thank you, Therese! I had thought about sewing piping on the scallops and probably should have. I love this pattern, so I’m certain there will be another version in the future and you’ll be able to prominently see those scalloped pockets. 🙂

  6. What a fun story behind this awesome fabric! I love the perfect belt buckle you found and what a clever idea to add a waistband to elongate the shortened bodice. Also: those pockets!!!!!!!

    • Thank you, Sue! I definitely had to think a bit when I cut out this dress. I’m really happy it turned out. i also don’t usually go back and change things on a garment after I finished it, but I think that green buckle was the final finishing touch.

  10. What a gorgeous dress. It looks like a ton of work with all the gorgeous piping and rick rack but well worth it. That is so nice to have such a link with the fabric. Your Grandma had amazing taste. You look really lovely in your dress. Xx

    • Thank you, friend! It was actually pretty quick and easy sewing the trims on, the longest part was cutting it out! I’m very surprised that my grandma chose this print as she wasn’t into novelty stuff, but I assume that as it was for a bar area, that she stepped out of the box and picked something fun. 🙂

  13. Hi Tanya,

    What a fabulous pattern – which looks great on you. The fabric has it’s own tale to tell and just melds with you and the pattern, a stunning combination. Well done on the make and recovering the issues you had.

    LIz

  18. omg that is adorable, love the print and the touch of green, so cute on you.

  19. Beautiful dress and fabric. I love all the little details and the use of vintage notions and the fabric, of course. Did I mention that I love that fabric? 😉

  20. What a find among your grandparents’ things! When this one popped up on IG, I thought you had found a cool Japanese print. I have some Japanese fairytale/movie themed cotton canvas (Wizard of Oz, Jack and the Beanstalk, Gingerbread Man) that I made into little smocks when my sons were little. I kick myself for not buying more because it’s so cool! I love all the little touches of green! You did the fabric proud!

    • Thank you, Elizabeth! Japanese prints have to be my favorites when it comes to contemporary fabrics. How fun would it be if they re-released some of these novelty prints from the 50’s?

  21. Hi Tanya! So creative of you to repurpose drapes for a dress.
    I have large upper arms and slouchy shoulders. I find it difficult to make sleeves fit over my arms. You obviously know what you are doing!

    • Thank you, Ann! I might have used the curtains for actually curtains, but they didn’t work any where in the house, so a dress it is! 🙂 I also have large biceps. For this type of sleeve i added width to the top of the pattern piece and a little to the bottom and worked just fine.

  22. That fabric is amazing and so glad it was saved from the barn. I love the pattern you chose for the dress. One of your best yet with the touches of green trim to give it all life

    • Thank you! 🙂 I’m happy that the fabric and pattern paired well together and that I didn’t ruin the fabric when I cut it up. I always have to take a deep breath when I cut into precious fabric like this.

  24. What a great story! The dress is fabulous, as usual. It’s a family treasure. I love the rick rack.

    • Thanks, Kelly! I was afraid the green would get lost, but I think it stands out a bit and gives a little contrast to that busy print.

  27. How exciting to find these treasures!! My Grandma only kept what was absolutely necessary. No treasures other than her sewing cabinet, chair and machine. :o)
    This dress is stunning and you look beautiful! I think the skirt looks quite full already! Thank You for sharing!

    • Thank you! The only reason why this fabric didn’t get donated somewhere was because my grandma didn’t know it was still around…. She had already given away all of her couture/bespoke gowns and dresses before my mom and I had even realized that she had. 🙁

  28. I absolutely adored this print from the time you first shared it on Instagram, and I just love what you’ve done with it. Such a pretty dress!

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Mrs. Hughes: A retro inspired, vintage garment sewing and plus-size dressmaking blog by Tanya Maile Hughes.