How’s tricks, dames?
I’m extremely excited to fully share this year’s 1920’s dress for the Gatsby Summer Afternoon. I’ve been sharing my progress in making this dress on Instagram and it was a labor of love. The Gatsby Summer Afternoon is an Art Deco picnic held at the Dunsmuir-Hellman Mansion in Oakland, CA every September. I usually combine my outfit post with my picnic and the rest of my photos from the event, but as this year would be a bit too much, I’m splitting the posts up. I will also share a post on how I made my hat, which is an upcycled straw hat with vintage millinery flowers.
McCall 6078, circa 1930
This project started with this pattern. I hadn’t decided on a pattern for my dress yet until my mother-in-law offered to lend me this vintage 1930 pattern in her collection. I was considering buying a vintage 20’s pattern already, and I loved the details of this one, so I decided to make it.
This pattern features the 1930’s column silhouette with a slim-fitting hip. I could see from the line drawings that with a little tweaking, that I could make it into more of a late-20’s chemise dress.
I started the process by sketching my dress out in my Cashmerette Curvy Sketchbook. The design is a little different from the finished project as the artwork on the pattern is not the same as the front yoke/sleeve pattern pieces. Sketching it out helped to figure out the placement of the silk flowers that I planned to make, which I actually worked on before I started on my dress.
My muslin. The right side has my final alterations.
I traced the pattern out first and then graded it up using the slash and spread method. This pattern is a bust 32″, which I re-sized to a bust 48″. The pattern did come in my size, but unfortunately I didn’t have that size — I was lucky to have this one! I widened the hip of the pattern after I re-sized it and then cut out and sewed a muslin. I don’t often make a muslin of a pattern, but when it’s a vintage pattern that I have to re-size quite a bit, I definitely need to make one. I had to slash and spread starting at the waist again, as I was having some fabric pooling on the back and I needed the dress to skim my body more. I also had to fix the neckline as it was a little distorted from the grading. I did a lot of comparisons between the line drawings, the artwork, the original pattern pieces and my traced/muslined pieces to ensure that I didn’t alter the design. It was a little perplexing — especially after finding a photo from the original 1930 pattern catalog — as the artwork on the yoke and sleeve looks different than the actual pattern piece and I wondered what I did wrong. The McCall’s artist apparently took a little artistic license.
I worked on the ribbon flowers first, using the book The Artful Ribbon by Candace Kling. I read five ribbon embroidery books and found that one to be best. I chose my favorite flower — pansies — and used both the tutorial for those and the one for making the 1920’s leaf. I used hanah silk ribbons in varying widths from Britex Fabrics. The ribbons actually cost more than my dress fabric….. The flowers are sewn on to crinoline, which is then cut and sewn on to my dress. I used DMC embroidery floss for the “vines” (I took artistic license as pansies do not have vines…) or long stems instead of ribbon as I didn’t have enough ribbon for it.
My dress is made of silk crepe de chine in a muted 1920’s green that I purchased from Fabric Mart. I’m not exactly certain what this color would have been called in the 20’s, but it perfectly matches many vintage dresses I’ve seen in the same shade. Sage perhaps? I picked the colors of my flowers to contrast with the green of my dress as in the 20’s they liked to use colors across the color wheel together.
This is the oldest vintage pattern that I’ve sewn, but it was printed, so that made things a little easier. However, there were no instructions, so I had to figure out how to sew it myself. Thankfully I was familiar with most of the construction techniques used in this dress. This pattern did have instructions on how to alter it to fit, so that was interesting to see.
If you noticed, there is also added feature of my dress with gathers on the shoulders. I didn’t stabilize the v-neckline soon enough and it stretched on the bias, distorting it and it didn’t lie flat. I had sewn the shoulders together with French seams and finished the neckline with self fabric bias binding, so I fixed it by adding a “design detail.” I need to remember in the future to stabilize such things ASAP!
I had never sewn M-Pleats before, and as I previously stated, there were no instructions, just stitching and folding line guides on the pattern pieces. I had to figure them out myself, and sewing them was a longer process than sewing this dress together. I moved the pleat insertion position to suit the width that I added the hip and also changed their position to ensure that they hit me in the right spot, lining up with the points on the yoke.
The snow is falling! (My slip is showing) I must have my dress pulled up on the side or something…
The one thing that I don’t like about my dress is the length. I intended it to be longer, but I had to cut off some of the length as the insertion piece for the M-pleats ended up being shorter when I sewed it in. I measured this dress to ensure that the hem was even and straight, but sometimes it seems to come up on the sides of the skirt. I think that’s due to the armscyes pulling a bit as I should have enlarged them a little more, which is something I can still do to it. Anyway, due to the length I couldn’t wear my stockings as they showed and as I didn’t try them on with my dress during my “rehearsal”, I didn’t know until I got to the event (I changed there) that didn’t work. And as I’m not a flapper, I didn’t want my knees showing above my stockings.
As I mentioned before, this dress has French seams and I made bias tape for the neckline and armhole binding. I used Hug Snug rayon seam binding as hem tape for the skirt.
I made a slip to wear under this dress using Vintage Vogue 2535, a 1928 re-issue. This is the third time I’ve used this slip pattern. This time I sewed it out of cotton voile and altered the neckline to work with my dress. I used vintage lace inserted on the neckline to add more vintage details to this otherwise plain slip.
I made a matching purse for my outfit. I had made these ribbon pansies (they are on the front and back) originally to go above the M-pleats on my dress, but when I pinned them on with the other flowers, I decided that they were a bit too much, so I used them to adorn my purse. I think the single pansy above each pleat with leaves and embroidery look better and complete the dress.
My purse is self-drafted using the same method that I outlined in a previous tutorial. It’s lined with the same voile from my slip and has Czechoslovakian glass seed beads beaded around the frame.
These are the last minute garters that I made and didn’t wear.
I also made a boutonniere for my husband. He’s wearing a vintage 1920’s silk foulard tie.
We took these photos with the columns at the dilapidated ruins of the pool and pool house at the Dunsmuir mansion. I wish I had pool ruins on our ranch to take photos at. 🙂
I guess I could have tried drafting a dress similar to this myself using my sloper, but as much as I enjoy collecting vintage patterns, I enjoy sewing them much more. Using a vintage pattern for a project is a wonderful thing as it’s like creating something from history.
Happy Sewing!
- Dress: Vintage McCall 6078 (circa 1930) in silk crepe de chine, made by me
- Slip: Vogue 2535 (1928 re-issue) in cotton voile, made by me
- Shoes: Aerosoles “Marine Corps”
- Necklace: Vintage 1920’s/30’s
- Earrings: Vintage 1920’s
- Purse: Self-drafted in silk crepe de chine, made by me
- Parasol: Vintage 1920’s
Exquisite! What fun.
You are my hero, this dress is a work of art, it looks fabulous on you!
I am impressed with the shaping on that dress. It hangs so beautifully on you, and you look beautiful in it! I envy your sewing skills! Thank you for posting about this!
In love with it all,and that you made a slip,too! It’s hard for me to find vintage style sewers in anywhere near my size,I’m so happy I found your blog,very inspiring.
This dress looks Bee-yoo-tiful on you. I never thought I could wear 1920’s (since I need a well-defined waist, too), but I’m definitely reconsidering after looking at this dress!
Honestly Tanya this is such a win. If you ever decide to go into pattern design, a version of this dress would sell like bacon.
The colours and embellishment are on point! I’m astoundingly envious for this dress!
As to the length – I think this length suits you incredibly well. I know ‘flatter’ is a fraught term, but you have beautiful legs and this length makes them shine. I hope you felt beautiful on the day yourself, because you certainly looked it.
Thank you so much! 🙂 I did feel beautiful as I always do in historical/retro dresses. And “flatter” isn’t a term that bothers me as I use it myself.
So beautiful Tanya–so creative–the entire ensemble–including the slip.
Thank you, Robin! It definitely inspires me to create more interesting things.
This is amazing!! Such an awesome job on this dress. I love the fit, the colour, the flowers, everything! Those flowers are stunning, I can’t imagine making all of those! This dress is a work of art 🙂 And I think the length absolutely works for the style
Thank you, Nikki! The flowers are very fun to make, but it helped that I was layed up with an injury when I made them and it was hot outside, so i made those whilst sitting in the cool air watching TV. 🙂
Stunning work, Tanya! All of the planning you put into it shows in the execution. One of the loveliest handmade dresses I’ve seen on the internet in a long time. Thank you for sharing your process.
Thank you so much, Najah! 🙂
The black and white photos at the end made me think of these wonderful photos of my great grandparents and their best friends walking on the boardwalk of Atlantic City in their best clothes. The ladies have their heads tossed back laughing and the men have that chuffed look. One of them is wearing a dress with a neckline like that and a fur stole. The men have oversized suits and bowlers.
I love how this dress came out and how flirty that silhouette is! I’m also really relieved that I’m not the only one who adds “design details” when things don’t go according to plan. I need to start adding more details to my hand made clothes. I love to embroider and yet never seem to do it to my clothes.
I can picture that photo you described of your great grandparents. What a treasure!
You definitely should try adding some embroidery to your makes. It would also look so lovely on the sweaters that you knit. 🙂
lovely work, Tanya! TY 4 sharing the journey.
Thank you, Caroline! 🙂
I am actually tearing up reading this. What a glorious dress! The care and love that you put into it really shows, and it is so perfect. You are an inspiration!
Awe, thank you! 🙂
Ohhhh! That seems to be the only noise I can make. It’s all just so lovely.
Thank you so much! I enjoyed making and sharing it.. 🙂
What a handsome couple you make! This dress is truly a beautiful work of art. Even though it is from a vintage pattern, it translates well into the here and now. I hope you take many opportunities to wear it:)
Thank you, Angela! I’m not sure how often it will be worn, but this definitely won’t be it’s first outing.
Wow! This dress is AMAZING! I want it! I’m going to put this pattern on my must locate list.
Thank you!!! 🙂 I hope you find it! Even better if you find it in your size!
this is gorgeous, what a dress! love the style you chose, so perfect. and the flowers are beautiful. Love the color combo.
Thank you, Beth! I was so excited to wear it after all of that work. It was fun to make though, so it didn’t feel tedious like such things sometimes seem.
Fabulous! Those pansies are beautiful and add the perfect touch to that dress… The dress looks wonderful on you- I especially like that color and those pleats! And the boutonniere to match! Perfection! Looks like you had a wonderful day!
Thank you, Laurie! I’m really happy of how it all came together. 🙂 Can you believe that no one noticed (or at least said anything) to Brian about his boutonniere?
This is a beautiful dress. I feel as though I need to incorporate M pleats on something, as my name starts with M. I’m not a monogram kind of woman, but I am the kind of woman who would sew fantastically detailed pleats that give the illusion of a monogram.
Thank you, Mariah! I think you should! It’s an interesting detail that showcases your initial.
So stunning! I especially love the pansies, they look gorgeous contrasted with the color if the dress. I’d love to hear more about those M pleats, I’ve never heard of them before as this isn’t my decade!
Thanks, Allie! You make a slit for each side in the dress, which goes up the center of the M-pleat and and then goes out on each side to form an “M”, which you press under. There is an insertion piece that you pleat, sewing down a little way on each pleat. Each insertion piece is set in under each M and is sewn to each side of the slit in the dress fabric. I hope that doesn’t sound too confusing! But they are basically pleated inserts.
Gorgeous and what everyone else has said. Especially that you knew you could wear this type dress. I’m blown away by your creativity.
Thanks, Kathy! For this event, I don’t really pay attention to what flatters me at the straight chemise style of the 20’s doesn’t, but I think with my alterations this one, it works better for my shape.
Absolutely gorgeous! I love it! Great Job!
Thank you, Alyssa!
That’s a real labour of love! I love the colour you chose for the dress, and those pansies are the best! You look abulous, congratulations on a wonderful outfit!
Thank you, Anne! The color did work out well. I was going to go white, but decided to do a color this year and that one looked like a good one!
Seriously impressive! Great details and a fantastic outfit
Thank you, Kerry!
Gorgeous. You look perfect!
Thanks, Miriana! 🙂
Wow all your hard work has totally paid off with this. Just stunning! The colour, the pleats, the flowers, the whole thing. Huge congrats.
Thanks, Manju! I loved making it, even though it was time consuming.
Wow, just brilliant. You are so talented. Absolutely beautiful and stunning well done you!
Thank you so much, Angela! I loved making it!
wow wow wow absolutely blown away by your talent. this is so beautiful. i always look forward to seeing your gatsby dresses as they are just incredible.
Thank you, Sarah! I’m actually going to be making a 20’s evening gown for a ball next year along with next year’s Gatsby dress, so there will be at least two in my future sewing queue!
Your dress is fantastic! I would never have thought to even attempt wearing one of the stick straight dresses from the 20’s since I’m curvy and round. I thought it would be impossible.I was so wrong. You rocked the pattern alterations and wearing the dress. You’re beautiful! And your skills amaze me 🙂
Honestly, the only time I wear a dress like that is for this event as I like having waist definition. But after this one and altering it to fit me better, I think I’d make an everyday one!
It looks so amazing! I am usually so skeptical of 1920s/early 30s styles on us larger/curvier people but wow this style looks incredible on you! The colour is glorious too. I am in serious lust over those flowers, so skillful and they really make the dress. I’m just listing all the things I like about it – there’s more but I’ll stop and just stick with saying it looks fantastic!
Thank you, Kate! I know what you mean…. I generally wouldn’t want to wear 20’s/30’s in everyday life as I don’t like form-fitting skirts and I prefer to have waist definition. But altering the design with slash/spreading at the hips really helped me out and makes me want to make everyday dresses from those eras. The pattern even advises you how to do that hip alteration, so it’s very vintage indeed. 🙂
Oh. Wow. This is absolutely amazing! The attention to detail, the colour, the design – this is simply stunning! What an amazing creation 😀 And if only we all had rad ruins to photograph at 😀
Thank you, Amanda! It inspires me to make some more costumes that I’ve always wanted. Those pool ruins remind me of Dark Shadows. I wish there were some around here!!
Beautiful! You did an awesome job on everything.
Thank you, Ginger! 🙂
Tanya you should consider this a masterpiece! It is gorgeous, flattering and shows your hard work and dedication…. It cannot be described with one word!
Thank you so much, Carla! I truly love everything about it and making it was especially fun (except for the pattern grading!).
I love this! The color is great on you, as is the shape of the dress! And those flowers- just stunning!
Thank you, Meg! It think the dress shape is a little more flattering on me than the regular straight chemise 20’s shape. 🙂
Beautiful! Those flowers really make it extra special. I love your photos too.
Thank you, Barbara! The flowers were so fun make to and I can’t wait to make more. The book I used has so many vintage examples of ribbon embroidery that are very inspiring.
Wow, that’s a stunner! I love the colour on you (my family has a 40’s slip in this colour that I’ve always loved!) and the pansies make it so one of a kind. It’s fits you so beautifully too – I’m always impressed when dresses hang so smoothly! Great job!
Thanks, Gillian! I’m so glad I made a muslin of it to tweak out the fitting issues. Also, how wonderful to have some vintage family treasures like that slip!
Thank you for sharing this. The dress is wonderful and I can tell all of the time and decisions you had to make to create it. Good work! The ribbon embroidery is lovely and inspiring.
Thank you, Brenda! I’ve always wanted to make ribbon flowers and had envisioned putting them on this year’s dress. I’m so happy with the result.
What a stunning dress! I love that sage with the contrasting pansies-which are gorgeous too! Beautifully designed and made! I love all the thoughtful details like the matching purse and hat. You look amazing! Hope you had a wonderful time at the event!
Thank you, Rebecca! It was fun making the dress and accouterments and especially, wearing it. The picnic was lovely as usual. 🙂